16
e. With the rudder still taped in neutral, adjust the threaded R/C
links until you get both pull-pull cables to approximately the same
mild tension - it’s not necessary to pull the cables extremely tight.
f. Remove the tape holding the rudder in place, turn on the
transmitter and test the movement and centering of the rudder.
Adjust as needed.
g. When satisfied with the operation of the pull-pull system,
tighten the knurled stop nut on each rigging coupler up against the
end of the R/C links to lock the links in place.
❑
16)
The two Coiled Steering Springs can now be installed on
the tailwheel, connecting the tailwheel's steering arm to the
T-shaped metal horn mounted on the bottom of the rudder.
a. Use needle nose pliers to bend loops in one end of each
spring to hook into the holes of the T-shaped rudder horn.
b. With the rudder and tailwheel both in neutral position, apply a
small amount of tension to the spring and use the pliers to make a
90
O
bend at the tailwheel steering arm hole. Insert the wire into the
steering arm and make another 90
O
bend back toward the center
of the spring, forming a loop. Do the same for the other spring. Do
not over stretch the springs when doing this. A little bit of tension
is all you need.
c. Turn on your radio system to check the movement of the
rudder and tailwheel. If there is binding, correct it. The springs
should center the tailwheel to the rudder when it is at neutral.
❑
17) Mount the two elevator servos in the fuselage now, using
the rubber grommets and screws that were supplied with your
radio system. When done, temporarily unscrew the elevator servos
so you can install the radio "Y-harness" chord in the next step.
b. Slide one of the copper swage tubes onto the end of one of
the pieces of cable. Then thread the end of the cable through the
small hole in the end of the threaded rigging coupler, giving
yourself about 4" - 5" of cable past the hole to work with. Loop the
short end of the cable back and run it back through the copper
tube. Pull the tube up to the rigging coupler, about 1/2" away from
it. Use pliers or a crimping tool to squeeze the copper tube tightly
over the cable, locking it in place. Cut off the excess short end of
the cable. Thread an R/C link onto the rigging coupler, centering it
on the threads. Repeat this process to make the same type of end
on the other piece of cable.
c. The two cable ends prepared in the last step will be located
at the rudder. Feed the bare end of the cables into the pull-pull
exits built into the rear of the fuselage.
Pass the cable ends
completely through the rear of the fuselage and up to the rudder
servo location.
Keep pulling the cables forward until you can
connect the R/C links to the rudder control horns.
❑
15) Turn the fuselage upside down on your bench to make it
easier to complete the pull-pull cable connections to the rudder
servo.
a. Install a heavy-duty 2-sided servo output arm onto the rudder
servo. Turn on your radio system to center the rudder servo.
b. Temporarily tape the rudder in neutral alignment with the fin.
c. Thread the remaining 2 R/C links onto the remaining 2 rigging
couplers. Be sure to center the R/C links on the threads of the
rigging couplers. Clip the units in the outermost holes on each side
of the rudder servo arm.
d. Slide a copper swage tube onto the bare end of one of the
pull-pull cables inside the fuselage. Poke the end of the cable
through the small hole in the end of the rigging coupler. Make a
half loop back into and through the copper tube. Pull the cable
snug to remove any slack (not tight) as you slide the copper tube
up close to the output arm. Crimp the tubing tightly over the cable,
locking it in place. Cut off the excess short end of the cable.
Repeat the process to complete the remaining cable on the
opposite side of the servo output arm.
IMPORTANT SAFETY ISSUE: You may have noticed in the
last picture that we installed a short length of fuel line tubing
over each R/C link, as insurance against the link popping
open and coming off in flight. It’s a good idea to do this to all
the R/C links you use in all of your models.