Operation
This pump is designed for intermittent duty only.
The pump operates normally up to about 40-psi, where a spring-loaded by-pass valve opens, allowing flow back from the
output side to the input side, providing smooth, steady flow with virtually no cycling, all the way down to a trickle. As a
faucet is opened back up, the pressure will drop, the by-pass will close and full flow is again obtained. This allows good
flow, even with today’s restrictive showers and pullout sprayer faucets. Performance will vary, of course, depending on the
voltage to the pump; lower voltage = lower flow, higher voltage = higher flow. Remember your electrical safety: It is
always best to shut power to the pump OFF when leaving the RV unattended.
About The By-Pass
NOTE: By-pass adjustment should be performed by professional technicians with proper
gauges and equipment.
The by-pass is a spring loaded diaphragm that opens up allowing water from the discharge side back to the inlet side.
The by-pass is set to begin opening at about 40 psi and creating full by-pass at about 62 psi (for 55 psi models), lower
pressure pumps will vary depending on the by-pass and pressure switch settings. If the switch or by -pass are adjusted too
much, the by-pass and switch shut-off can overlap and
THE PUMP WILL NOT SHUT OFF
. Screwing the switch screw in
clockwise will raise the shut-off pressure. Unscrewing the switch screw counterclockwise will lower the pump shut-off pres-
sure. Screwing the by-pass screw in will raise the pressure at which the by-pass starts and raise the full by-pass pressure.
Unscrewing the by-pass screw counterclockwise will lower the pressure at which by-pass starts and lower the full by-pass
pressure.
WARNING: If full by-pass is reached before the shut-off setting, the pump will not shut off.
Full by-pass
pressure setting should be at least 5 psi higher than pump shut off pressure.
Maintenance
Normal pump maintenance is all that is needed: Checking and cleaning of the strainer, normal sanitizing and winterizing
and occasionally checking all plumbing hardware and fittings for tightness. Lack of sanitizing is the number one reason for
premature pump failure and poor performance over time. Lack of sanitizing will cause scale build-up on the diaphragm
and valves, causing low flow and leak back [occasional pump cycling with no faucets open or tank filling up when hooked
up to city water].
Sanitizing
Potable water systems require periodic maintenance to keep components working properly and deliver a consistent flow of
fresh water. Sanitizing is recommended: prior to storing, after a period of storage, or any time the system is opened or
contaminated, as follows:
NOTE: Check your Vehicle Owner’s Manual for specific instructions. By-pass any filters
or remove filter cartridges.
1. Determine the amount of common household bleach needed to sanitize the tank.
A) 2 ounces of bleach per 15 gallons tank size: 60 gallon tank [15 x 4] = 4 x 2 ounces = 8 ounces of bleach.
B) I ml bleach per 1 liter tank size: 300 liter tank = 300 milliliters of bleach.
2. Mix the bleach with water in a container such as a gallon jug. If tank is filled through a pressurized fitting, pour the bleach
into the hose before attaching the hose to the city water entry.
3. Pour the bleach solution into the tank and fill the tank with potable water. Rock RV back and forth to coat top and sides of
potable water tank.
4. Open
all
faucets (Hot & Cold) allowing the water to run until the odor of chlorine is detected. Allow four (4) hours of
contact time to disinfect completely. Doubling the solution concentration allows for a contact time of one (1) hour.
5. Drain the tank. Refill the tank and flush the system once or twice until the odor has decreased. The residual chlorine
odor and taste is not harmful.
Winterizing
Refer to the vehicle owner’s manual for specific winterizing instructions.
If water is allowed to freeze in the system, serious damage to the plumbing and pump may occur. Failures of this type will
void the warranty. The best guarantee against damage is to completely drain the pump and perform the following:
1. Drain the water tank. If the tank doesn't have a drain valve, open all faucets allowing the pump to operate until the tank
is empty.
2. Open all the faucets (including the lowest valve or drain in the plumbing), allow the pump to purge the water from the
plumbing, and then turn the pump OFF.
3. Using a pan to catch the remaining water, remove the plumbing at the pump's inlet/outlet ports. Turn the pump ON,
allowing it to operate until the water is expelled. Turn OFF power to the pump once the plumbing is emptied. Do not
reconnect the pump plumbing. Make a note at tank filler as a reminder: "Plumbing is disconnected".
4. All faucets must be left open to guard against any damage.
5. Potable anti-freeze may be poured down drains and toilets to protect p-traps and toilet seals. Sanitize the plumbing system
before putting the plumbing system back in service.
911-1008-D
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