7.4
FITTING THE BOWL
1 -
Using a straight edge mark the 2 sleeves where
they join the bowl.
2 -
Remove the sleeves from the bowl and insert
them into the frame. Using a straight edge mark
the 2 sleeves where they join the wall.
Use soapy water
to facilitate insertion of the sleeves.
3 -
Measure the distance
(L)
between the two marks
for both sleeves.
4 -
Note this distance
(L)
, adding an extra 3mm for
the frame end for both sleeves. E.g.: If L=50mm,
the sleeve should be shortened by 53mm.
5 -
Cut the sleeves using a hacksaw.
6 -
Use a file to smooth the section where the cut
was made.
7 -
Measure the thickness of the bowl’s rear section
(B)
.
8 -
If necessary, cut the anchor rods again so that
the section protruding from the wall is equal to
(B)
+20mm.
9 -
Shorten the flexible tube so that the section
protruding from the wall is equal to
(B)
- 15 mm.
10 -
Insert the supply sleeve
and the discharge
sleeve
into the bowl.
Then place the bowl onto the two anchor rods.
Use soapy water to facilitate insertion of the
discharge sleeve into the bowl and the pipe.
11 -
Once the bowl is correctly positioned, fix it using
the parts provided, whilst ensuring that the
parts are fitted in the correct order:
= seating washer
= nut
= metal washer
= cover
i
iv
iii
ii
i
l
h
FITTING THE FLUSH PLATE
1 -
Fix the small backplate of the plate onto the
frame using 2 grey screws .
If the casing is not particularly thick, shorten the
screws by breaking them at the notch designed
for this purpose.
2 -
Screw in the two actuation screws (the 2
remaining grey screws ).
If the casing is not particularly thick, shorten the
screws by simply breaking them at the notch
designed for this purpose.
3 -
Adjust the actuation screws so that the distance
(C)
is equal to 25mm, so as to:
•
enable drainage to occur.
•
prevent a continual flow.
4 -
Hook the bottom of the flush plate onto the
spring, then gently push it back, snapping the
plate onto the clips.
c
b
c
7.6
I FITTING THE CASING
Various materials can be used to make the casing
(brick, plasterboard, waterproof wooden panels, etc.).
Use the cut-out template provided to cut the various
holes (flush plate, bowl discharge and supply pipes,
bowl anchor rods).
1 -
Top panel dimensions
2 -
Bottom panel dimensions
7.4.a
7.4.b
7.5
CASING
PREPARING THE CASING
1 -
Place the frame in position .
2 -
Fix the PSE template onto the access hatch
using the two grey screws from the flush plate box.
3 -
Insert the flange into the supply elbow and
the flange into the macerator, and insert the
flexible tube onto the bowl’s anchor rods .
The casing thickness must be between 16 and
100mm. The casing and frame must be
interdependent. The front must be in 2 parts so
that the lower section facing the removable
frame can be used as an access hatch.
k
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j
g
t
f
c
e
V1
j
WATER TEST
1 -
Insert the water supply sleeve and the discharge
sleeve into the bowl.
Use soapy water
to facilitate insertion of the sleeves.
2 -
Position the bowl on the frame.
3 -
Turn on the water using the stop tap and wait
until the cistern is full.
4 -
Check the macerator’s plumbing and electrical
connections.
5 -
Using the pull cords, start the mechanism
manually.
6 -
Check the watertightness of both the supply and
discharge pipes.
7 -
Turn off the stop tap and empty the cistern.
8 -
Remove the bowl.
v
d
l
h
7.3.b
CONNECTING TO THE FEED WATER
CONNECTION
1 -
Remove the frame
of the plate by lifting up the
two bolts
.
2 -
Feed the feed water pipe into the cistern.
3 -
Connect the hose to the stop tap using either
the turn flare provided or directly with the nut on
the feed water pipe (in this case, ensure
watertightness with a fibre washer).
4 -
Connect the stop tap onto the ballcock and
ensure watertightness with a fibre washer).
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V2
V1
7.3
7.3.a
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Notice SANIWALL PRO Traduction_1:Mise en page 1 23/09/2008 12:25 Page 18
