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begin to rise or tighten up. At initial indication of the chain rising, go to neutral
and let the inertia complete the aft movement of the boat. When the chain is
taught and begins to pull the boat forward, put the engine in reverse again but
only at idle. Maintain idle reverse to properly set the anchor. If the anchor is set
properly the boat will not move further aft. You can verify this by picking a
point on the shoreline and lining it up with either of the pilot house doors. If
there is no further movement aft at idle reverse you have successfully set the
anchor. If there is further movement aft ... reset the anchor or let out more chain
to increase the scope. If you are still unsuccessful find another anchorage with
better bottom conditions.
7.
Verify the anchor is set by selecting “neutral” and seeing the boat move forward
and the chain angle dropping to near straight down.
8.
Using the anchor harness line with the stainless chain hook (stowed in the step at
the helm settee, or on the bow cleats) secure the chain in front of the anchor roller
with the stainless hook and tie off each end of the line to the port and starboard
bow cleats. Let out more chain so that a slack loop is created in the chain
between the anchor roller and the place where the hook grabs the anchor chain.
This will relieve stress on the windless and ensure additional chain is not pulled
from the windless.
9.
Do an “anchor watch” for the first 30 minutes, observing how the boat swings
and how close it gets to other boats and objects.
10.
The chart plotter has an anchor alarm feature that will provide an aural warning if
the boat drifts outside of a predetermined radius. We have a baby monitor stored
in the upper port cabinet in the master stateroom. Put the “baby unit” near the
chart plotter (it must be plugged into an AC outlet so the inverter must be on),
and the battery powered “parent unit” in the stateroom so you can hear the
warning should the boat drift at night. This procedure is recommended any time
an anchorage is determined to be marginal or you expect high winds or current to
be a factor.
MOORING BOUY
You may use one of the bow dock lines to tie to a mooring buoy by using the boat hook to catch
the ring on top of the buoy. Have the boat move forward while walking the buoy toward the stern
where it will be easier to attach the dock line. Pull the ring up enough to pass the dock line
through the ring twice, back the boat until you can easily tie off to the port and starboard bow
cleats. A second bowline looped through the buoy ring is advisable as a safety backup.
RETRIEVING THE ANCHOR
Raise the chain so you can easily unhook the anchor harness. Release the line from one of the
cleats and bring it over to the other cleat and remove the harness and stow it in the settee step at
the helm station. Wash the chain and anchor with plenty of sea water as it is retrieved:
1.
Turn ON the SEAWATER WASH DOWN breaker on the DC power panel.
2.
Retrieve the self-coiling hose and nozzle from the Lazarette. “It may already be installed
at the bow”
3.
Connect the hose with the nozzle attached to the seawater receptacle at the bow.
4.
Start the engine and move slowly toward the anchor.
At the bow, have a crew member depress the up arrow (points aft) switch to retrieve the
anchor. If the windless stops retrieving and the clutch makes a clicking sound simply feed out a
couple of feet and then resume retrieving the anchor. Use the seawater nozzle to wash the chain
Summary of Contents for Mariah
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