Some padlock keys and some General Motors keys have cuts deeper than .142" from the back edge of
the key blade. For these keys you have to shim the vise jaws to clamp the keys properly.
Use the pair of round-drill rod shims that came with your machine. Place a shim in each vise jaw
against the back edge and lay the key in front of.the shim—effectively pushing the key out of the vise
jaws and clamping on the remaining .102" of the key. See figure 2 below.
By opening the vise jaws enough to slide the key in you will be making the key lay right in front of the
drill rod shim in the vise jaw—effectively pushing the key out of the vise jaws and clamping on the
remaining .
102" of the key.
VISE JAW WITH .040" SHIM
TO ENABLE DEEP CUT TO
BE MADE IN KEY. KEY IS
CLAMPED ON .102" OF ITS
BLADE.
STANDARD JAW WILL
CLAMP MAXIMUM
AMOUNT OF KEY. KEY
IS CLAMPED ON. 142"
OF Its BLADE.
FIGURE 2
TOP VISE JAW REPLACEMENT
Either top vise jaw may be replaced at any time—you do not have to buy top vise jaws in pairs.
Inspect your top vise jaws for uneven clamping and referencing surfaces. Replace when worn.
Accelerated wear occurs when you clamp double-sided steel keys such as Volks Wagon. Clamping
pre 1984-1/2 Ford double-sided keys too far to the right into the vise jaws causes wear to the left edges
of both the top and bottom vise jaws. The damage is due to the "wedged" shaped milling of these keys
as you approach the bow of the key.
Unscrew the painted key clamp knob and remove the knob and its threaded shaft and the three piece radial
thrust bearing. Reinstall a new vise jaw assembly. NOTE: The top vise jaw and plunger are preassembled
at the factory and are sold as an assembly. See figure 3
Figure 3
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