RCRCM MiniVec Dorado Instuction Manual Download Page 12

Balancing and Set-up

I prefer to balance models using lead shot and epoxy rather than making a moulded 
lead piece for the nose.

Tape a small plastic bag to the nose of the model leaving it open at the top.

Put the model on a balancer and pour lead shot into the bag until the model 
balances. For now, balance it at 85mm from the leading edge.

Remove the bag from the nose and put to one side. Remove the battery from the 
nose of the model. Now mix up enough 30min epoxy to pot the lead shot into the 
nose and remove some of the lead shot to allow for the weight of the epoxy. Mix up 
the shot and epoxy and pour the mixture into the nose of the model. I like to place a 
bit of greased cellophane around the battery and replace it into the nose of the model 
so make sure that the nose weight doesn’t get in the way of the battery. You should 
find that there is just enough room.

Once dry, remove the battery and the cellophane.

Now rebalance the model and add removable nose weights either side of the 
battery to give you a CG of 77mm. This will be your CG for the maiden flight. 
Most pilots end up flying the MiniVec around 80mm.

Summary of Contents for MiniVec Dorado

Page 1: ...covers x 4 Radio tray Radio gear that you will need Battery we recommend the 2 3A size in 4 8V for this model Wing servos Hitec HS125MG Hyperion DS11AMB Hyperion DS095FMD or similar Hyperion DS095FMD...

Page 2: ...retainer spacer to keep the ballast in place Use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to put a few slots into the sides of the nut to give the glue something to grab onto Drill a 6mm hole in lower surface o...

Page 3: ...on the ballast to make sure that it is glued in the right place Measure 111mm from the inside of the rear stopper in the ballast tube and make a mark around the tube This will align with the REAR edg...

Page 4: ...into place so that the epoxy fillets well between the sides of the tube and the fuse interior Ensure the mark on the tube lines up perfectly with the rear of the joiner hole as noted above Picture bel...

Page 5: ...y in place Angle it such that the pushrod run will allow them to easily come up to the height of the servo head Make sure that the marks line up with the joiner hole Tack your tray in position with so...

Page 6: ...r pushrod extenders are clean and rough them up a little with a small file Centre your fuselage servos Tape your rudder up in the central position Ensure that the bellcrank is positioned centrally in...

Page 7: ...ieve the ideal servo arm length of 6mm without the clevis binding An arm length of 7mm makes a clevis clevis installation easier but you may still need to relieve the flap clevis slightly to clear the...

Page 8: ...pin to clevis pin Set this position by soldering the clevis to the pushrod Ensure that the clevis pin and the threaded L bend are perfectly in line To thread it into the servo arm drill a 1 6mm hole 6...

Page 9: ...ce in the wing centre the servo once more to be sure Then proceed to glueing the servo in as shown overleaf Ensure that the linkage runs perpendicular to the hingeline Your servo will now be fixed in...

Page 10: ...free linkage it is essential to tie the servo in to the lower skin as well as the top skin To do this you can use 1mm ply or 1mm G10 epoxy board as shown below Again use glue sparingly to secure the b...

Page 11: ...Then through the wing joiner hole put some thickened epoxy onto the back of the connectors to secure them really well Securing the wing side can be done as an automating connection but the simplest w...

Page 12: ...epoxy to pot the lead shot into the nose and remove some of the lead shot to allow for the weight of the epoxy Mix up the shot and epoxy and pour the mixture into the nose of the model I like to plac...

Page 13: ...m each way high 4mm each way low Snapflap measured at flap root 7 5mm each way worked out along the aileron to maintain a straight trailing edge my snapflap throw stays the same for high or low rate e...

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