Construction Manual
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Page 11
to do the same. If you do not want to use the rudder, then glue VF5
to the vertical fin. After flying the Comet, you can always change
your mind by slitting along the join line, shaping and hinging the
rudder, and running a rudder pushrod.
Step 70 - Vertical Fin (attachment)
Permanently attach the vertical
fin to the Comet airframe. Make
sure it’s the proper way up,
it’s exactly centered along it’s
entire length and a perfect 90°
to the wings.
Step 71 - Nose Gear assembly.
Attach the nose gear. The nose gear
wire is pushed up through the block that
was mounted way back in step 3. Slip
the steering arm in place, then push the
nose gear wire all the way through the
block and the arm. Stop when the wire is
flush with the top of the mounting block.
Position the steering arm at a 25-30°
angle, then tighten the set-screw in
the steering arm just tight enough so it
should make a mark on the nose gear
wire. Loosen the screw and remove the
wire. Grind a small flat on the nose gear
where the screw made a mark, then re-attach.
Step 72 - Main Gear assembly.
The main gear slips into the
mounting blocks installed
back in step 34-35. Locate
the 1/8” plastic landing gear
straps and 8 of the 2-56 x 3/4”
self tapping screws. Place
each strap across the wire,
roughly a 1/4” in from the bends. Using a 1/16th bit, drill the two
holes using the straps as your guide. Fasten in place using the
screws. Repeat this for the other side.
Step 73 - Covering
Now it is time to cover the Comet. Remove the powerplant, cowl
gear, pushrods, and any other components that would get in the
way of applying the covering.
Double check that all surfaces are smooth and ready to cover. Sand
as necessary, then cover the entire airframe with the covering/finish
of your choice.
Note that if you’re powering with
an electric motor, we strongly
suggest you make a “cheater
hole” in the bottom of the cowl,
similar to this, so cooling air can
enter the fuselage.
When the covering is complete, re-attach all the components you
removed earlier in this step.
Logos, numbers, etc.
If you want to use graphics similar to the
ones we used, Old School Model Works
has teamed up with Callie Graphics as a
supplier for pre-cut vinyl. They are a very
well known provider of custom graphics
for R/C models.
We have supplied them with the artwork needed to cut the correct
size logos. You can order straight from them, choosing the colors
that work for you.
Contact Callie Graphics at this link: https://callie-graphics.com or scan
the QR code on the previous page.
Note that Callie Graphics is not affiliated with Old School Model
Works, nor does Old School Model Works generate any income
from this partnership.
Step 74 - Cut and hinge the elevons
Locate the two 5/16” x 1-1/4” x 36” tapered balsa strips. Measure
and cut them to the correct length to make the elevons. When
finished, make the necessary slots/holes needed to hinge the
elevons to each side of the wing. We recommend 3 hinges per
elevon and glue them in using thin C/A.
Step 75 - Hinge the rudder
If using the rudder, locate VF5 and shape the leading edge.
When finished, make the necessary slots/holes needed to hinge
the rudder to vertical fin. We recommend 3 hinges spaced evenly
along this joint, again, attached using thin C/A.
Step 76 - Radio and Pushrod Installation
Now it’s time to fit all of the pushrods, control horns and connect
everything so the radio will control the Comet properly. Make sure
that when installing the control horns, they are placed in-line with
the pushrods, and that the line of holes where the clevises attach
are positioned over the hinge line.
For the average pilot, we recommend that clevises are attached to
the outermost hole on each control horn.
Finish the installation of your radio gear by adding the receiver,
flight pack battery and the switch. We mounted the receiver to
the fuselage side using a bit of self-adhesive hook-and-loop (not
included).
For electric power,
locate TF from LP3. This
can be glued in place
and used as the “floor“
to mount the flight
battery to using a bit
of hook-and-loop (not
included).
This tray can slide a bit
fore and aft, so position
it where you want then lock in place with a bit of glue.
Using TF with glow power typically doesn’t work, but it will depend
