Norton 850 Mk 1 1974, Service Notes, Page: 33 / 48

GROUP 18:- Handlebar controls
There are many variations in these bits and pieces which may not be obvious to the naked thingy:
THE BRAKE AND CLUTCH LEVERS: Started off with good old fashioned steel levers-but there are also
two types of the later Lucas pattern. Early alloy levers were almost flat on their front surfaces. Later levers
were rounded to make it easier to pull in the clutch (!) and to match the rounded hydraulic lever: they are
much more comfortable. Later still (1973) the clamp brackets were altered to move the pivot away from
the handlebar grip-making it for the first time possible to use clutch and dipswitch at the same time.
Previously if you could reach the switch your fingers were so near the clutch pivot that you had virtually
no leverage. Even later the plastic switch levers were lengthened to make operation even easier-you can't
get the bits separately to update your machine, but if you are buying complete switches get the latest
type; they are completely interchangeable. 1 shouldn't have to tell you that if you have a penchant for an
indicator switch on the left hand side you can simply swap the complete units over without disconnecting
anything but the 8 screws which hold them to the bars, but then you will have to get used to operating the
front brake, dipswitch, horn and headlamp flasher with your right hand (and sometimes all at once). One
of the horn or headlamp wires can be connected instead to the red and white (starter) connection in the
other unit, but the other button separates a connection (the kill button) rather than making one. If you are
a genius with a soldering iron you can do it. . . .
I am now going to say something which seems fairly obvious. If the throttle cable breaks, stop at once.
This is because the ferrule between the cable and the clamp can fall out in the road and then you really
are stuck. This can even happen if the throttle just sticks-especially if the single cable freezes in the outer-
so it's best to tape the ferrule to the end of the cable. This also helps to stop the rain getting in. A twin pull
twist grip with two cables all the way without midway adjusters is very much recommended. Slops all
breakages and is easier to adjust i.e. one adjuster on carb. top.
CLUTCH CABLE: Was originally a plain cable-with the new alloy levers the tree length was changed
slightly, the inner was lined with the cheapest possible nylon, and the nipple was changed to a brass
rather than a separate steel component. This was the old story, good news and bad news, again. The
nylon was an improvement, but tends to bunch up under the ferrule at the handlebar end, making the
action stiffer and stiffer. Pull off the ferrule, cut about 1/4in (oh all right, 6mm) off the nylon and push the
ferrule on again. Don't try it with wire cutters or you'll nick the cable, use the bread knife. You can't do
much about the brass nipple-but beware, as soon as the solder is worn off the surface the brass will grate
on the aluminium, and this flexing will soon break off the cable flush with the nipple. Only cure is a steel
nipple, but no-one makes them because steel is much more difficult to solder, so you must find a brass
nipple like the one on the other end of the clutch cable and make a loose nipple to take it. Or use the bits
oft a pre 1971 Commando, or even a proper Norton.
Warning to all featherbed riders who try to use a Commando front brake cable because it's got a switch in
or any other reason. The threads for the adjusters are different-used to be 5/16 CEI (cycle=26 tpi)
changed to 5/16 UNF (24 tpi) just to catch you out. Silly.
If you find the master cylinder won't fit with your style of handlebars, you might get some relief by
swapping the stop switch and hose over--or miss the switch out altogether and block the spare hole with
a 3/4in. UNF set screw. (If overcome by patriotism you'll have to use an oil tank drain plug part no:
060668.)
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