Step 1
Stem Knee
Hole for
stay collar
Gammoning slot
Hawse holes
Step 2
Note how the
molding lines up
with those on the hull.
Notch the beakhead sides
here to fit over the wales.
Color Scheme…
Paint the bottom of the hull tallow - or
eggshell. You might consider muting the
painted areas of your model. They may
appear too bright and “new”. A thin wash
of watered down brown acrylic paint was
used on the prototype. After painting a
small area of the hull immediately wipe it
clean leaving only a trace of brown
The colors and design chosen for this
model are a variation on those used by
William Baker. William Baker was the
designer of the replica now residing in
Plymouth Massachusetts. The prototype
was painted similar to how the replica
looked at the time it was launched. You
will no doubt find countless variations
while doing research on the Mayflower.
Most historians now agree that more elab-
orate designs would not have been used
for the Mayflower because she was a sim-
ple merchant ship. The more elaborate
patterns and colors would have been
reserved for important vessels.
The same thinking carries over to the
“Mayflower” emblem used on the stern.
There is a debate over whether the flower
design would have been a carved decora-
tion or simply painted on the stern of the
ship. A casting is provided in the kit and
can now be painted and glued to the stern.
The center of the flower is pale yellow
with white petals. The leaves surrounding
this are painted green. This design also
varies throughout history. This kit uses the
emblem that was shown on the replica at
the time of her launch.
Constructing the Beakhead…
The beakhead was a prominent feature of a
merchant vessel at this time. The head of
any ship is very complex. There are many
structural elements that shape the
beakhead. Many elements for the
beakhead are laser cut for you. However
it is recommended that each one is test fit
as a card board template first before shap-
ing them from the wood provided. Small
differences in the way you shaped the hull,
bow and stem can have an impact on how
all of these beakhead elements fit together.
The plans should be used as a guide. After
you make any minor modifications to
Step 3
Frames/stanchions
Beams/
floor timbers
these cardboard templates, reshape the
laser cut pieces to fit properly.
As done previously we will break down
the construction of the beakhead into indi-
vidual steps. However, before you begin
the hawse holes should be drilled into the
bow. The hole for the bowsprit should
also be made now because it will be more
difficult to do so when the beakhead is
completed. The hawse holes for the
anchor cables are 1/8” in diameter. They
are positioned 3/16” from the stem. See
the plans for details.
Step 1
- Position the the 1/8” thick laser
cut stem knee. See the photo above which
shows the knee glued to the stem. Note
the slot made for the bowsprit gammoning.
The knee serves a similar function as the
keel does for the hull. It supports the floor
timbers which lay across the knee in the
slots provided. On top of these will be a
grating and planks that the sailors would
stand on while tending to the rigging.
Frames were attached to the ends of these
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Summary of Contents for Mayflower 1620
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