1/32” strips to plank this area. It can be treenailed and stained
when you complete it. You should also plank the underside of
this top section with 1/32” thick planks before you move ahead to
the windowed area of the stern.
The middle section has a row of larger windows. The windows
should be completed first. Use a single piece of acetate that
stretches across the stern. Tape it on top of sheet one of the plans
so you can create the diamond pattern with the .010 wide pin-
stripe tape. Then frame each window with the thicker tape. This
time you should cut the 1/16” wide tape in half so it is only 1/32”
wide. This is a simple procedure. Just run a length across your
cutting board and make sure it is straight. Then use a metal ruler
to carefully cut it in half. The tape should still adhere to the
acetate after you remove it from the cutting board. After framing
the windows you should cut them along the outside edge of the
window frames. The acetate will be too thick to plank over.
Leave the group of windows together as shown in the first photo
provided on the next page.
Before you glue the windows to the stern, paint the inside of the
openings black. Then glue a 1/16” x 1/16” strip under the over-
hang of the stern. You can now glue the bank of windows to the
stern. Set it against the 1/16” strip and center it side-to-side.
Then glue a 1/8” x 1/16” strip under the windows. The remain-
ing vertical timbers can now be cut to fit around the windows to
complete them. The two vertical planks that appear to the left and
the right of the center window can be cut to length. Because they
will be placed on top of the acetate you should use thinner (1/8”
x 1/32”) strips. The two remaining vertical planks on the outside
of the hull should be 1/16” thick since they will be set against the
windows rather than on top of them. Finish off the planking
beneath the windows with 1/16” thick planks. Treenail and stain
them when you are finished. Finally, there are four laser cut
knees that should be sanded smooth and glued between the win-
dows. The knees on the edges of the stern should be set flush
with the outside of the hull. The final layer of external planking
1st - put final
plank on
2nd -
plank deck
3rd - detail and
position the
beakhead
bulkhead
Line up the bulwark template with the Cubbridge head bulkhead
when gluing it on the hull.
Planked inboard with 1/8” x 1/32” planks. Note the windows glued to
the inboard side of bulwarks.
this before you glue it into position. There are two doors shown
on the plans and they can be made just like the others earlier.
These doors appear on the original plans William Baker devel-
oped for the Mayflower replica. At some point since its launch
the doors were replaced. They were replaced with two ladders
like those shown on the Forward Cubbridge head. There are
more than enough laser cut steps provided in the kit and you can
opt to model it with either configuration. Glue it into position
and sand it flush to fit. See the photo below.
Finishing up the Stern…
There are two remaining areas on the stern that can now be
planked. The top area is fairly straight forward. Use 1/8” x
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Summary of Contents for Mayflower 1620
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