Stealer cut to 1/2 its width and allowed to gradually taper
to its full 1/8” width as it runs off the stern.
The next plank is notched out to fit around the stealer. Start by making a 1/16” long cut across the width of the plank
where it will butt into the end of the stealer. Then gradually taper the aft end to the full 1/8” width as it runs off the stern.
Before you stop holding the three planks down firmly against
the jig’s surface you should place a heavy book, brick or item on
top of them. This is the reason why the spiling guide and stops
are the same thickness as the planks being shaped. The book
needs to lay flat across the spiling guide and the planks. They
will always want to spring free because of the tension created.
But after they are fully dry and you remove the planks, they will
retain the artificially “spiled” shape. See the photo (on the pre-
vious page) of a spiled plank held against the hull. You can see
how the shape mirrors the run of the planks already glued
around the bow. This process takes a little practice but once you
get the hang of it you will appreciate how much easier it will be
to plank the balance of the Mayflower hull (any hull for that
matter). You might even want to try using a plank from this sec-
ond jig while planking the first belt in step 2. You might find it
helpful for the last few planks in the first belt. The edge-bend-
ing required is not that great but the choice is yours.
Some additional notes for step 3 and 4
- Begin step 4 by plac-
ing the first plank (called the garboard plank) against the keel.
The garboard plank should be 3/16” x 1/16”. It is slightly wider
than the other hull planking. The forward end of the garboard
plank is actually tapered to a flat edge. See the photo provided.
The forward end of the garboard plank starts at bulkhead (C).
The next few planks positioned can have their ends flat also.
This would require that you notch each plank around the end of
the previous one. The flat forward ends are optional though..
This would have been the way the planks ended at the bow on
the actual ship, but you can taper them to a point if you prefer.
The bottom of the hull will painted and there is another layer
that will cover these. Unless you plan on leaving the second
layer natural this extra detail will not be seen if painted.
Depending on your experience and comfort level the option is
yours. You can see both methods used in the same photo at the
left. Note how only the garboard plank has a blundt end and the
next plank is notched around it. The other planks are just
tapered to a point and some of youmight find that easier to do.
You may need to clamp the aft ends of the planks against the
bulkhead former at the stern since there will be a significant
9
Garboard plank
twist to them. Soaking the plank with water before hand will
make it easier to glue into position. There is no need to pre-spile
the garboard plank in the jig first.
The area to be planked is greater at the stern then it is at the bow.
This is the reason why you tapered every plank at the bow. But
the area to be covered is still greater at the stern and more rows of
planks will be needed there. In order to fill the additional space,
two stealers will be required. You can place one of them in the
planking belt for step 3 and the another in the final planking belt.
To create a stealer, simply taper a plank to half its width (1/16”
wide). See the photo above showing a stealer glued to the hull.
The next row of planking needs to be notched to fit around the
stealer. Start by making a 1/16” long cut in the plank where it
will meet the end of the stealer. Then taper the plank gradually so
it is the full 1/8” width as it runs off the stern. See the additional
photo that shows the notched plank after it was glued to the hull.
The stealers will only be long enough to span across about a third
of the hull at the stern.
Once you complete step four, sand the hull smooth. Use some
wood filler to fill any gaps between the planks. This will prepare
the surface for the final layer of planking.
Summary of Contents for Mayflower 1620
Page 2: ......
