1/8” x 1/32”
planks on
the top
section
1/8” x 1/16”
thick planks
on the middle
section.
Plank around
the windows.
Completed stern with
four laser cut knees in
place between the
windows. Planks were
also stained and
treenailed.
will run right over these knees and be sanded to match their pro-
file. See the photo provided that shows this step completed. The
port lids and other stern molding will be addressed later in the
project. You can now focus on the bulwark stanchions in prepa-
ration for the final hull planking.
Adding the Stem, Keel and Stern Post…
Before you start the bulwark stanchions, it would be a good
opportunity to glue the stem into position. The stem has been
laser cut for you. You can glue it onto the hull. It is notched out
where it will fit onto the deck of the beakhead. Center it down
the rabbit strip. Then glue the keel into position followed by the
stern post. Use 1/8” x 1/8” strips for these. The stem knee will
not be added yet since it will be quite fragile. That won’t be
glued into position until you begin the head framing and
planking later on.
Bulwark Stanchions and pre-planking…
The frames or stanchions are glued to the inboard sides of the
bulwarks. Bass wood strips 1/6” x 3/32” are provided for them.
The plans have been drawn to scale and can be used to accurately
find the locations and lengths for each stanchion (see the over-
head deck layouts on sheet one of the plans). A tick-strip will help
you mark the locations for each stanchion along the bulwarks.
Simply take a long strip of paper and hold it against the plans.
Place a tick mark where each stanchion is shown. Then hold the
tick strip along the model and mark each frame location using the
tick strip as a guide. Cut each stanchion about 1/16” longer than
shown on the deck profile. They can be properly trimmed and
shaped after the pre-planking is completed. The photo on the
next page shows the pre-planking glued to the stanchions on the
fore castle. Before you glue the stanchions into place you must
first place the waterway on deck. Use 1/8” x 1/32” strips for the
waterway. They should run along all four sides of the forecastle.
Check the plans for details.
Glue each stanchion against the inside of the forecastle bulwarks.
Don’t be skimpy with the glue here. These will need some hold-
ing power. It might be a good idea to stain all of the stanchions
prior to gluing them on the model. The super glue has a tenden-
cy to prevent stain from penetrating into it. This will make the
final finish blotchy and uneven. With all of the stanchions com-
pleted on all four sides of the forecastle, you can now glue the
pre-planking strips to them. The open areas of the bulwarks are
1/8” high. You can use a scrap length of planking as a spacer.
Glue the pre-planking into position as shown in the photo pro-
vided on the next page. Then remove the spacer to reveal the
open areas. Be very careful not to glue the spacer to the stan-
chions. The pre-planking strips are all 1/16” thick and the spe-
cific widths for them are shown in the same photo.
Add the waterways to the poop deck on all four sides as shown
on the plans. The upper deck will only have the waterway along
the bulwarks. The half deck will not have any waterway added at
this time. The photo on the next page shows the pre-planking on
one side of the hull in place. These planks are added after all of
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Summary of Contents for Mayflower 1620
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