8
4. Cutting the rabbet
The rabbet is a generic term referring to the entire groove where
planks are fitted along the stem, keel, and sternpost. The rabbet
consists of three basic lines. A rabbet line is the line where the outer
face of the planks butts with the keel, stem, and sternpost. The
bearding line is the intersection of the center keel with the planks
inner face. A third line, called the middle line, is where the edge or
end of a planks inner surface butts in the rabbet groove. These three
lines are illustrated in detail on plan sheet 2.
Note: As shown in the detail, the rabbet shape varies depending
upon its location along the hull. Cut the depth of the rabbet (rabbet
line to middle line) to suit the thickness of the planking (1/16").
Do this with a #11 hobby blade. In full size practice, the rabbet
groove must be cut very precisely. In model work, the middle line
and the bearding line are not critical at all since they will never be
seen. So, you can just about forget about the middle line and cut
the rabbet from the bearding line to the rabbet line. Of course, the
rabbet is cut on both sides of the keel.
As you carve the rabbet, fit a scrap piece of 1/16" plank stock
against the keel, stem, and sternpost to make sure it fits in the
rabbet at the approximate angle that the planking will take to the
rabbet at that point. The objective is to have the planking fit nicely
into the rabbit with the plank edge on the rabbet line. The laser
engraved rabbet line makes this a simple task. Take care in the
cutting to preserve the crisp engraved rabbet line. Mark the rabbet
line on the sternpost and carry the rabbet groove through the
sternpost as shown on sheet 2. A pattern for marking the tapered
portion of the stem is provided on sheet 2. Your options here are to
cut the pattern out of the plans or trace the pattern on tracing paper
or having a copy made of this portion of the plans. Glue to stiff
paper (3M 77 spray glue is handy here) and cut out.
5. Assembling the building jig
The molds and center keel being CAD designed and precision laser
cut should fit together very nicely. Test fit each mold to the center
keel verifying that the slots slide together neatly. Make any adjust-
ments necessary. You will need a nice flat building surface to
assemble the jig. Note that it is not necessary to glue the building
jig to the building board. Glue each mold to the center keel in its
proper place referring to sheet 2. Carpenters glue is ideal for this
step. IMPORTANT: note that the sheer tabs from mold 9 through
15 are on the forward side of the molds and from 8 through 1 are
on the aft side of the molds. Ensure that the molds and keel meet
on the surface of the building board and that the molds are square
to the center keel.
Stiffening struts:
Cut 1/8 square basswood strip wood pieces to fit
between the molds as stiffening struts as shown in photo 5 and on
sheet 2. This adds a great deal of rigidity to the structure and pre-
pares us for the fairing process. The nominal distance between
molds is 1 and 1/32 inch.
Photo 4, cutting the rabbet
Photo 5, adding the stiffening struts
