4
Before You Begin
The launch is an interesting boat and makes a splendid model. The
model is well suited for the beginning ship modeler. At 3/4" = 1' 0"
scale, it is easy to build and obtain precise detail. Plank-on-frame
hull construction on a building jig with laser-cut parts offers a
unique building method. It assures an accurate hull form built in
the same way as the original full size boat.
Britannia, brass, and wooden fittings eliminate creating many parts
from scratch. However, some require final finishing before they are
suitable for the model. This is especially true for the Britannia fit-
tings and will be discussed later. In this kit there is only the grapnel
hook in cast Britannia metal
Always complete one construction stage before moving to the next.
When things go awry, consider doing them over.
Working with the Plans & Parts
The following modeling tips are general in nature and were written by
Ben Lankford. Edits and additions for this particular model are by
Bob Crane. For more of Ben’s tips see the bibliography.
Before starting the model, carefully examine the kit and study the
plans. First, determine if all the listed parts are present. Handling
them will produce a better understanding of the kit’s requirements.
Try to visualize how every piece will look on the completed model.
Also, determine the building sequence - what must be done first -
ahead of time. The instructions will help, but a thorough knowledge
of the plans at the outset is essential.
1. The Plans
Five plan sheets are provided:
1. Laser Cut Wood Patterns
2. Hull Construction
3. Finishing Out
4. Spars, Sails, and Rigging
5. Laser Cut Planking and Floorboards
Model Shipways’ Launch of the Bounty kit is manufactured to a scale
of 3/4" = 1' 0" (1:16). Each sheet is drawn to that scale except areas
enlarged to show detail. A scale of 2X noted on the plans is twice
scale, or 1-1/2" = 1' 0". Most dimensions can be lifted directly off the
plans by using draftsman dividers or a “tick” strip (strip of paper). Lay
the paper strip over the plan, carefully mark the item’s length with a
sharp pencil, then transfer the marks to the wood. This is general
model practice but will not be likely necessary since nearly every part
in the kit is laser cut.
The table below compares full-size dimensions with scale model
inches and millimeters:
Full Size Inches
Model Scale Inches
Model Scale Millimeters
1/4"
1/64"
0.40mm
1/2"
1/32"
0.79mm
3/4"
3/64"
1.19mm
1"
1/16"
1.59mm
1-1/2"
3/32"
2.38mm
2"
1/8"
3.18mm
4"
1/4"
6.35mm
6"
3/8"
9.53mm
8"
1/2"
12.7mm
2. Making Allowances Along the Way
Try to be exact when following the plans, but use common sense.
Adjustments may be necessary to compensate for small differences in
how your model is shaping up; i.e., perhaps the mast has too much
rake (the angle at which it sits). Lines should not drape over fittings or
conflict with other lines when belayed (secured). Put yourself on the
boat, imagine performing the task, and use logic.
3. Understanding Hull Lines
Beginners may not be familiar with the following hull lines. Buttock
lines are vertical longitudinal planes cutting through the hull.
Waterlines are horizontal planes, and Sections are transverse vertical
planes. Diagonals are planes cut almost perpendicular to the station
lines. These lines define the hull’s shape and are used by the draftsman
to fair it (create smooth curves).
A complete set of hull lines is not needed for this model, because
lasercut molds and the center keel define the hull’s shape. The
planking layout on Plan Sheet 2 shows the station lines. They are the
same as the boat’s body plan or sections, and illustrate how the hull
curves from top to bottom.
The boat’s lines can be seen in the reproduction of the Nautical
Maritime Museum draught shown on page 3.
4. Kit Lumber
Strips and sheets of basswood are supplied in the kit. Sorting the
wood in the kit by thickness and wood-type will save time. After
selecting and cutting what you need, return the remaining stock to
the proper thickness and wood-type pile. Don’t worry about using a
piece for one item intended for another. Model Shipways supplies
enough extra wood to complete the model before running out.
5. Britannia Metal Fittings
There is only one Britannia fitting in this kit, the grapnel hook. This
item will require final finishing before mounting on the model. First,
remove mold joint flash with a #11 hobby blade, then file or sand
with fine sandpaper. Second, wash fittings in dishwashing liquid and
warm water to remove traces of mold release agent and the body oils
your fingers deposit. Allow the parts to dry thoroughly before
applying primer and painting or chemically blackening.
6. Soldering & Working with Brass
Here are some tips for working with brass.
Cut brass sheets and strips with a small pair of tin snips or heavy
scissors. Thicker brass will require a jeweler’s saw. After cutting,
smooth the edges with needle files followed by wet-or-dry fine
sandpaper used dry. Cutting slivers from brass sheet curls and bends
it sideways. To straighten, grip the ends with a pair of small pliers
and pull in opposite directions. Thin brass sheets can be scored with
a utility knife and metal straightedge, then snapped off. Use two or
three light passes, cutting against a maple chopping block, birch
board, or glass.
Drilling holes in brass with a pin vise is a slow process. The solution is
to use a small hobby rotary drill. Several companies manufacturer
these tools and they are worth the cost. The cordless models are espe-
cially useful. When working with brass, use a 1/4" or thicker piece of
maple or birch for backing. (Avoid softwoods, as these flare the exit
hole.) To prevent the bit from wandering, mark the spot with a small
center punch. Lubricate the bit with light oil and drill slowly to avoid
breakage. The brass will become hot, so watch your fingers and use a
piece of wood to hold the brass down. If possible, keep the RPM
below 2000. Anything higher can generate enough heat to break small
drill bits.
