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any decals or dry transfer lettering.
Brush painting:
Painting with fine, soft bristle brushes is probably
best for the beginner. Many skilled model makers prefer the
brushed-on technique, because its subtle imperfections impart a
more lifelike appearance to the model. Brushes must be soft and of
the highest quality. Artist grade sable or synthetics are the best. Use
wider brushes for painting broad surfaces. If too narrow, the bristles
will cause excessive streaking.
When applying paint or stain with a brush, lay down one thin coat
in a single stroke, then move to an adjacent area and coat it with a
single stroke. Never go back over fresh paint. That will tear up the
surface. Wait until it has dried to a hard finish before applying a
second coat.
Spray painting:
Although slightly expensive, a Paasche, Badger,
Testors, Revell-Monogram, or similar airbrush will produce a
first-rate job and is worth the investment. Airbrushes are either
single action (trigger controls only airflow) or double action (trigger
controls air and paint) and easy to use. Spray patterns can vary from
thin to about 1/2" wide by either adjusting the needle or installing a
different, sealed nozzle. In some brands, paint travels through the
airbrush body to the needle. These require disassembling to clean.
Other designs bypass the body and bring paint directly to the
nozzle. These clean by simply spraying solvent through them.
Paints are either water (acrylic) or solvent based. Solvent-based
paints spray best. Acrylics are difficult to spray and must definitely
be used with the manufacturer’s special thinner. Thinning water-
based paints with water creates surface tension problems, resulting
in poor coverage and spray atomization. If a manufacturer's thinner
is not available, alcohol can be used as a substitute. Experiment
when using acrylics. Some modelers have success and others don’t.
When using solvent-based paints, work outdoors or equip your
shop with a spray booth. These fumes are toxic.
Many brands of aerosol paints produce good results. However, test
them on scrap wood before spraying the model. Aerosols put out a
lot more paint than an airbrush, so be careful to avoid runs. Spray
on several light coats.
Most paint manufacturers have special thinners for their various
paint lines. Follow each manufacturer’s recommendations. Mixing
brands is not a good idea, because they may not be compatible.
Sometimes, however, no other option exists. If so, apply each brand
separately and allow to thoroughly dry before adding the next.
Always test to make sure the final flat or gloss finish is compatible
with the paint it will cover.
Masking surfaces:
Masking can be a tricky process. Some brands of
masking tape are worthless, because they allow paint to seep
underneath their edges. For masking fine stripes or straight and
curved lines, use a graphic arts tape such as Chart Pak. It comes in
widths as fine as 1/64". Chart Pak tapes have superb adhesion and
won’t bleed when firmly applied (burnishing is recommended).
Black plastic electrician’s tape and Scotch Removable Magic Tape are
also excellent. Scotch’s tape has the same, low stick adhesive as its
famous PostIt pads. In fact, PostIt tape flags can be used for masking.
2. Bounty’s Launch Color Scheme
The color scheme is shown on the plans and the box art for the
various parts and areas. This color scheme is after Mansir and it is
not known what source material he may have used if any. At any
rate it is an attractive color scheme and is of paint pigments known
to be available for the period.
The following Model Shipways acrylic paints match the colors
noted on the plans:
White
- Warm White, MS4832
Primer
- MS4839
Yellow Ochre
- Hull Yellow Ochre, MS4829
Gray
- Deck Medium Gray, MS4826 or Deck Light Gray, MS4825
Green
- Bright Green, MS4836
Cherry Stain
- MS4979 •
Tung Oil
- MS4978
STAGE 1:
BUILDING THE CONSTRUCTION JIG
1. General
The model is built over a construction jig which consists of a center
piece commonly called a false keel, and molds numbered 1 through
15 located at stations. The molds are shaped to the lines of the hull
but reduced in size by the thickness of the frame. Once the frames
are bent on to the molds the outside of the frames coincide with the
hull lines inside of the planking. The exception is that molds 1, 2,
and 3 do not receive frames and are shaped to the inside of the
planking. This is so because the cant frames will later be installed to
the inside of the hull after planking.
Photo 1, preparing the stem, keel, and sternpost
