Now run it up the middle to loop around the motor pulley, then around the top Z Axis Bearing
Plate Idler Pulley, indicated by the top red circle. The toothed side of the belt should mesh with
the teeth on the motor pulley and the backside of the belt will run on the top Z Axis Idler Pulley.
Keep some tension on this belt to make sure
it doesn’t slip off a pulley.
Run the belt around the
top anchor point and secure it with a zip tie. The teeth should mesh together. You’ll want at
least 6 or 7 pounds of tension on the belt. Floppy belts are no good. Get some tension.
Now that you have the belt fully anchored, move the Z Axis Bearing Plate up and down to make
sure that the belt isn’t slipping off any of the pulleys. If it is, one or both of the anchor points is
misaligned, the motor pulley is misaligned, a screw is looser, or you have too much tension. If
you used the proper spacers when you assembled the bearing plates (10 mm aluminum spacers),
the bearings on the pulleys will be aligned on both plates.
Now locate the left frame piece as well as the 2040 V Rail Extrusion. Slide an M5 washer onto a
self-drilling screw and put the
screw through the top hole.
Slide the screw point into the
top tap hole of the 2040 V Rail
Extrusion and begin threading it
in. It’s best to tilt the frame
piece back with the opposite
end of the V Rail Extrusion on
the table or floor as you thread
it in. Get a few threads turned
into the top hole then get the
second hole started with
another M5 washer and self-
drilling screw. You’ll want to
end up with the top of the
frame flushed up to the top of
the V Rail Extrusion. Take
special care that the rail isn’t
cocked in any way, or your
router (or spindle) will never be
plum. Keeping this in mind, get
a final torque on the top and
bottom self-drilling screws.
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