6
7
a high pressure drop. Remember, these tanks
can weigh up to 30 pounds when full of water;
a firm, level area is required.
3. R.O. Manifold Assembly–
The manifold can
be installed on either the right or left side of
the under–sink area or a cabinet. The right
side is recommended because all the tubing
will be to the back of the cabinet and out of
the way. Installation in the basement is also
an option, one location is near the laundry/
utility sink where cold potable water and drain
access is handy. The mounting location should
allow adequate clearance and accessibility for
cartridge changes.
4. Feed Water Connection–
The Feed Water
Saddle Valve should be located as close to
the manifold assembly as possible. USE A
POTABLE COLD WATER SUPPLY ONLY.
Softened water is preferred as it will extend the
life of the R.O. Membrane.
5. Drain Connection–
The waste water must go to
drain through an anti–siphon air gap. The air
gap is provided for in the base of the faucet. If
discharging into a utility sink or standpipe, an
air gap of greater than 1" above the flood rim
must be provided.
Do NOT connect the system drain line to the
dishwasher drain or near the garbage disposal.
Backpressure from these units may cause the air
gap to overflow.
SECTION IV. INSTALLATION STEPS
All plumbing should be done in accordance with state
and local plumbing codes.
NOTE
: Some codes may require installation by a
licensed plumber; check with the local plumbing
authority prior to installation.
In restricted under–sink areas, it may be easier to
install the faucet first. Allow adequate tubing lengths
for any final component position.
A. Faucet Installation–
The faucet contains an
anti–siphon air gap. While the system is producing
water, the drain water flows from the R.O.,
through the air gap and then to the household
drain. The purpose of the air gap is to prevent
water in the drain from backing up into the R.O.
Drinking Water System.
NOTE:
For proper installation the Air Gap
Faucet has a critical level line “CL” marked on its
body and should be mounted so that the “CL” line
is at least one (1) inch (26mm) above the flood
level rim of the sink.
The easiest installation is to use an existing
spray attachment hole. If the spray faucet hole is
not available, then the sink top must be drilled.
Choose a convenient location as described in
Sec. III, C.1, page 6.
1. Mark the location of the center of the faucet
base.
2a. Drilling a stainless steel sink:
•Center punch the hole to provide a starting
point for the drill.
•Start with a smaller drill as a pilot, and then
drill a 1⁄2" diameter hole to accept the bolt
of a 11⁄4" Greenlee Hole Punch (11⁄4" chassis
punch).
•Clean away any chips.
•Install the punch and tighten the nut to cut
the hole.
•Deburr any sharp edges.
2b. Drilling a porcelain sink:
It is best to use a special 11⁄4" diameter cutter
designed for porcelain. A carbide tipped
masonry bit is a second choice.
•Place a piece of tape over the area to be
drilled to help prevent chipping.
•Drill a pilot hole for the porcelain cutter.
Use the pilot drill supplied with the kit or a
carbide tipped drill.
•When drilling the 11⁄4" hole, drill slowly and
carefully; the porcelain chips easily.
•After drilling, clean the area well. Iron filings,
if left in place, can cause rust stains.
2c. Drilling a counter top:
NOTE:
The counter top must be less than 11⁄4"
thick. Treat ceramic tile as porcelain until the
tile is penetrated, then use the carbide tipped
metal cutter.
Formica counter tops may be drilled with a
good 11⁄4" wood bit; drilling a
3
/
32
" pilot hole
will help keep the bit going straight.
3. Assemble and attach the Faucet (refer to
Fig. 2, page 8).