Malibu Boats M240 2021, Owner'S Manual

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2021 OWNER’S MANUAL | Care & Maintenance 135
is paramount. Using a dehumidifier isn’t practical for boat
storage, but a simple remedy can be using desiccant bags.
They must be monitored as they will absorb moisture and
become ineffective, but they can be replaced, and this is a
relatively inexpensive method. They are available in packs for
a normal-sized boat and called Boat Dry, purchasable from Sun
Solutions at www.sunsolutionproducts.com.
When the boat is ready to store, the best practices are:
• Clean and dry the boat thoroughly.
• Place a Boat Dry set of desiccant bags throughout the
boat.
• Put the mooring cover on and tightly ratchet (seat will
be created at the rub rail).
Drying out a boat is difficult but the extra care you take will
keep your boat looking new for a long time.
Condensation Cause and Protection
Water vapor in the atmosphere will condense onto another
surface only when that surface is cooler than the dew point
temperature, or when the water vapor equilibrium in the air
has been exceeded. The dew point temperature is based on
the air temperature and relative humidity. A typical example is
with 90 degrees F air temperature and 50% RH, the dew point
temperature is about 73 degrees F.
Many times, through the evening dew will condense onto
all outdoor surfaces like grass, cars, patio furniture, toys,
bikes, and the like as the air temperature and surfaces cool
below the “dew point.” Once the morning sun heats the air
temperature or those surfaces heat up enough, the dew will
evaporate back into “humidity” and this cycle continues as
long as the weather conditions permit.
When you cover your boat, you are sealing the outside air
in its present state under the cover. Also, if the boat wasn’t
dried out, that additional moisture will add to the wetness of
the trapped environment. As the air and surface temperatures
cool below the dew point the water vapor in that air will
condense onto all surfaces inside the boat. In the morning, it
will take longer to heat the air and surfaces under the cover as
it affords protection, thereby lengthening the time it takes to
have the condensation evaporate. It’s very possible if weather
conditions change that the condensation may not return to
vapor for quite some time.
This condition is often misunderstood as the cover
“leaking” water through the fabric, but because of the fabric’s
high hydrostatic water resistance (160 cm) this is not possible.
It’s understandable to think that having the cover wet
underneath is somehow due to it allowing water through, but
it is just condensation forming on its surface. It’s like camping
in a synthetic tent; if you’ve ever done it, you’ll remember
water beads form on the tent surface and bumping the tent
would cause them to “rain” on you.
Pooling Water
Water can pool on a cover for various reasons. However,
the Malibu cover is designed to combat this by having the
overall features and characteristics work in concert to
maximize its resistance. The fabric choice requires it to be
lightweight, high strength, coated, water repellant treated, and
dimensionally stable. This minimizes the fabric adding weight,
and its strength and stability allows for the necessary tight fit.
The “face” surface is treated with a water repellency,
lowering the surface tension so water beads up and runs off.
The “back” surface is urethane coated, providing additional
defense against water penetrating the cover. The new water
repellent lowered the surface tension further over traditional
treatments where the water beads move sooner joining with
other making them run off the cover sooner and faster. It also
increased hydrostatic water resistance (the ability of fabric to
resist water penetration) from about 100 cm to 170 cm.
All “face” water repellant treatments wear off and the
“water beading” will lessen eventually, allowing water to be
absorbed by the fabric fibers, but the “back side” urethane
coating will provide the second defense of penetration.
A traditional “face” treatment lasts about six to nine
months, and tests on the enhanced treatment (BW+) show it
will last three to four times longer.
In all cases durability of the treatment is very dependent on
the environment and use the cover experiences. Providing the
enhanced water repellent as a reapply alternative isn’t possible
because it requires a controlled bonding process to properly
attach it to the fabric surface. There are various aftermarket
repellents available, but because they are mechanically
attached, they usually only last about one month or so.
Maintaining Zippers and Hardware
• Lubricate zippers periodically using a clear silicone spray.
Spray silicone on the zipper and work the zipper back and
forth.
• Lubricate fasteners periodically using a clear silicone spray
to keep corrosion to a minimum. Replace any missing
fasteners or fasteners that show signs of corrosion.
• Do not use petroleum-based products, i.e. petroleum jelly.
Maintenance Tips
The real key to canvas longevity is like all things in life:
maintenance. Keep the canvas clean of dust, dirt, and
environment residue on a regular basis.
• Top fabrics should be cleaned of any dirt buildup at
regular intervals.
• We recommended applying a mild, lukewarm soap
solution, such as a liquid dishwashing soap, with a soft
brush or sponge. Water temperature is not to exceed
100° F. DO NOT allow the soap to dry. The fabric
must then be carefully rinsed with clear water in order
to remove any remaining soap residue. Allow canvas to
dry thoroughly. DO NOT USE DETERGENTS.
• The use of abrasive detergents and/or substrates
containing solvents or gasoline will damage the fabric.
If using high-pressure or steam-cleaning devices,
use caution as improper use could damage the vinyl
coating and/or fabric.
• Using harsh chemicals could void the fabric warranty
on your top if not recommended by the manufacturer.
• DO NOT PUT MARINE CANVAS IN YOUR
HOUSEHOLD DRYER. DO NOT DRY CLEAN BOAT
CANVAS.