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Madman EMS-3 Operating Manual
Page 32
10.7 Oil Pressure
Most engines use an oil pressure switch, which is coupled to the oil pressure warning light on the dash display.
Locate this switch on the engine (often nearby the oil filter) and remove the connector and then the switch.
Engines use a variety of thread sizes. Your Madman reseller will have a suitable adapter assembly available to suit your
engine. If it is not listed, please let them know and we will make a suitable adapter to suit your application.
You will need to fit the original pressure switch as well as the oil pressure sender to the engine by using a brass Tee piece
(available from MadMan) You will need to see which one must be fitted first such that everything can be screwed in tightly.
If there is no way that the original pressure switch and new pressure sender cannot co-exist in the space available there
are two options:
There may be an adapter pipe available that will effectively move the port away from the engine block to make space for
the Tee piece, pressure switch and sender or you can contact us to provide you with a pressure sender that contains both
the pressure switch and pressure sender in one unit, which may be easier to fit.
10.8 Coolant Level Detection
The brown wire in the EMS-3 unit connects to a coolant level sensor.
The CLD uses two probes (self tapping screws) and the presence of water/coolant between them to measure water.
The CLD is suitable for plastic coolant tanks, plastic radiator header tanks and can also be installed in the same inline
Delrin plastic hose adapter
as for the coolant temperature sender. For steel header tanks or copper radiators the
mechanical float switch (MCLD) can be used.
CLD Installation in a Plastic Coolant Tank:
Select a suitable place on the plastic coolant bottle / plastic tank that is normally flooded with coolant – choose a spot
about 10 to 20 mm lower than the normal level Drill two small holes (1.5mm) about 25mm from each other in the same
horizontal plane. Fit small lugs to the brown wire from the EMS and screw the lug to the tank using a 3.5mm self tapping
screw. The hole must be small so that the screw is tight – It makes a good water tight seal. Fit a lug to a loose black wire
and screw that into the other hole, take the black wire to the same earth point on the engine block as the EMS earth.
CLD Installation in an in-line hose adapter:
Some vehicles have no way of fitting a mechanical float switch and do not have plastic components, these vehicles can
use an inline hose adapter in the radiator hose. Select a suitable place in the top coolant hose, close to the engine block
that is normally flooded with coolant. Cut the hose here and insert the hose adapter and refit the hose to the other side of
the pipe with clamps. Fit the brown wire from the EMS-3 to the pipe. The return path is via the EMS earth wire already
installed – no further wiring necessary.
Mechanical Float Switch Installation:
Drill a suitable hole in the metal tank, feed the wires through the hole, ensure that the sealing washer is fitted and tighten
the nut, slowly and consistently until if feels tighter than before, then turn it one flat more – if it leaks turn it another flat
tighter. The float switch has two black wires, connect any one of these to the engine block and connect the other to the
EMS-3 wire directly. If the mechanical float switch is used, the EMS-3 should be set to 5 seconds or any suitable value to
prevent false alarms – the shorter the delay the better the safety margin.
10.9 RPM Installation
The RPM inputs can be used with signals from about 5Vpp to as much as 100Vpp. The input is also AC coupled for easy
installation. A noise filter is included that results in the input ignoring any high frequency noise signals as long as this is
below the detection threshold of about 2.5Vpp.
The input impedance of the rev counter input is approximately 10Kohm. You can use series resistors as well as load
resistors for applications that have unusual signals.