Kodak Instamatic M Series, Repairing

Page: 6 / 56

4/KODAK M-SERIES PROJECTORS
INSPECTION, REMOVING THE BOTTOM
COVER
I
nspection—that's the first step when you receive a
projector for repair. In a minimum amount of time, you
can determine what's wrong with the projector and what
parts you may need.
From the outside of the projector, evaluate the overall
condition. Check the damping arm, Fig. D1. There's a good
chance the plastic has become brittle with age and has
broken away, as in the illustrated projector, Fig. D2. Replac-
ing the damping arm requires that you remove the projector
mechanism from the housing. But before you order a new
damping arm, there are a few more things to check.
To check the shutter mechanism, we'll remove the bottom
cover, Fig. D3.
Caution: Be sure to unplug the projector
from the wall outlet before you remove the bottom cover.
Working on a partially disassembled projector that's con-
nected to line voltage risks serious electrical shock.
1. Take out the four 1/4" drive screws located within the
cavities at bottom of the projector, Fig. D3.
2. Some projectors have an additional two Phillips screws
located near the handle. Remove these screws also, Fig. D3.
3. Lift aside the bottom cover as shown in Fig. D7.
4. The power cord in the bottom cover still connects to the
projector. To completely remove the bottom cover, first twist
off the wire tie, Fig. D7, to separate two of the wires.
5. The other lead of the power cord connects to the switch,
Fig. D6. Note the position of the power-cord lead. The
power-cord lead connects to the port labeled "L." But the "L"
port may be in the lower right-hand corner as in Fig. D6 or in
the upper left-hand corner. Insert your curved tweezers next
to the power-cord lead as shown in Fig. D6. Then pull the
power-cord lead out of the switch port.
VARIATIONS:
If you're working on an M90 or an M95,
note the differences in Fig. D8 and Fig. D9. The M90 and
M95 use the 21V projection lamp rather than the 120V
projection lamp. Projectors that use the 21V lamp have a
large step-down transformer, Fig. D9, to drop the line
voltage. Also note the difference in the switch position, Fig.
D8—the "L" port for the power-cord lead is in the upper left-
hand corner.
The bottom cover is now completely disconnected from the
projector. Set aside the bottom cover while you examine the
projector mechanism.
If the projector won't advance the film, the most likely
problem is a damaged shutter gear. Look in the area shown
by the dashed circle, Fig. D7. Fig. D4 and Fig. D5 show
enlargements of this area. In Fig. D4, the shutter gear has
been chewed away—the gear teeth are completely missing.
In Fig. D5, the entire gear is missing—the gear has broken,
and the sections may be inside the projector.
FRONT PLATE
BOTTOM-COVER SCREWS
FIG. D3 Bottom of the M80 projector. Not all
projectors have the two upper screws. Note
that the bottom cover stores the take-up reel.
UPPER BOTTOM-
COVER SCREWS
FIG. D1 Front view of the M80 projector.
FIG. D2 A broken damping arm.
DAMPING ARM
Compliments of:
www.KodakParts.com