8/07
When the basic draft is strong, it can be adjusted by placing a stone, fireproof brick or a draft adjuster
plate (accessory) inside the upper part of the heater on top of the arched flame plate. If it does
not help, adjust the basic draft using the damper.
The basic draft is correctly adjusted when
the rate of combustion can be adjusted with the ash pit and the flames appear regular.
The heating capacity is also affected by the type and amount of fuel used.
Do not use too long logs. The long infeed section is not designed to be used as a fire box.
Do not operate the heater at red-hot temperatures on a regular basis.
3.6. TAKING SAUNA WITH ONE FIRE BOXFUL OF LOGS
Place two smallish sticks of wood in the fire box aligned with the grate bars with some kindling in
between. Then place a couple of logs on top at an angle. Close the fire door and pull the ash pit
out about 3 cm (1 3/16”).
When the starting sticks have burnt for about 5 minutes, realign them with the fire grate bar and fill the
fire box with solid logs placed in the direction of the grate bars. Close the door and leave the ash
pit about 3 cm (1 3/16”) open for a moment. After this, you can control the fire by closing the ash
pit to within 0.5 cm - 2 cm (1/4-7/8”). During this heating period, the walls of the fire box should
glow red hot for a while at the top. Normally you can start sauna in about 40 to 50 minutes
without having to add any firewood.
3.7. ADDING ANOTHER LOAD OF LOGS INTO THE FIREBOX
Depending on the number of bathers, cold weather etc., another load of firewood may be required.
When the first load of logs has burnt up (40 to 60 min at correct draft), add logs aligned with the
fire grate bars. If you do not go to the sauna straight away, you can leave the ash pit open a
couple of millimetres. With a full fire box, the fire will be sustained at the right level for a long time.
When going to the sauna, you can add a couple of logs if necessary.
3.8. CLEANING THE HEATER, REMOVAL OF ASH AND CHIMNEY-SWEEPING
To wash the exterior of the heater, use a mild detergent and a damp, soft cloth.
Excessive ash
shortens the service life of the fire grate and reduces combustion
.
Empty the ash
pit when cold before lighting the fire next time.
Use a metal bucket or similar to prevent the
risk of fire.
The lids at the top of the heater are for sweeping. Use the openings to sweep the inside of the heater
2 to 6 times per year. If the flue pipe is connected at the top of the heater, the soot drops into the
heater from where it is then removed.
4. PROBLEM-SOLVING
If you think that the heater is not working properly, check its operation against the following checklist.
Smoke inside the sauna, poor draft
1.
Is the flue damper out?
2.
Is the exit flue pipe firmly attached to the heater and chimney (no air leaks)?
3.
Is the alternative flue opening of the heater closed with the lid supplied with the unit?
4.
Are the flame plates at the top of the heater and the connecting pipe to the wall free from ash?
5.
Is the chimney fully open (swept, blocked by snow, winter cap, etc.).
6.
Is the chimney intact (cracks, erosion)?
7.
Is the chimney high enough relative to the surroundings (adjacent trees, steep cliffs, etc., require
a minimum chimney height of over 3.5 m (11
½
’) measured from the floor).
8.
Is the chimney of the right size (minimum
½
of brick size or a round flue with a diameter of
100 mm or 120 mm (4-4 13/16”) depending on the chimney)?
Stones do not get hot enough
9.
Is the fire in the heater strong enough (at least one fire boxful of dry solid logs)?
10. Is the draft too strong with the fire burning in the exit flue pipe which is red hot even though the
lower end of the heater inside the mantle is not glowing red (see section 3.5. Adjustment of draft
and output)?
11. Is the draft too weak (see steps 2 to 8 and heating instructions).
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