JUKI HZL-80 series Instruction Manual Download Page 37 | Manualshive

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Use this stitch with knitted, tricot
or other stretchy fabrics. The
stitch enables your seam to
stretch without breaking the
thread.

Good for easy to ravel and knit
fabrics. It is good for joining
durable fabric such as denims.

These stitches can also be
used as a decorative top stitch.

Straight stretch stitch is used to
add triple reinforcement to
stretch and hardwearing seams.

Triple zigzag stretch stitch is
suitable for firm fabrics like
denim, poplin, duck, etc.

Stretch stitches

Straight stretch stitch

Straight stitch

02

03

07

A

T

07

07

02

03

37

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36
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Summary of Contents for HZL-80 series

Page 1: ...NUAL Attention Please read this instruction manual before using the machine as it contains important operational and safety information Keep this manual accessible so that you may refer to it at anytime while operating the machine ...

Page 2: ......

Page 3: ...y attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual 3 Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug if it is not working properly if it has been dropped or damaged or dropped into water Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination repair electrical or mechanical adjustment 4 Never operate the appliance with any air op...

Page 4: ...let and use it after a while Contact your nearest dealer if it still occurs 20 Don t use the machine if it s wet or in humid environment 21 22 Never place anything on the foot control 23 The machine must only be used with foot controller type 24 25 The sewing machine is equipped with a LED lamp If the LED lamp is broken it must be replaced by the manufacturer or its service agent in order to avoid...

Page 5: ...sure safe operation of the sewing machine and to prevent possible risk of injury to the user and other people Warning marks are used for different purposes as described below WARNING Indicates that there is a possible risk of death or serious injury if this mark is ignored and the sewing machine is used in a wrong manner CAUTION Indicates the operation etc which can cause a possible risk of person...

Page 6: ... The operating temperature of the sewing machine is between 5ºC and 40ºC Do not use the sewing machine under the direct sunlight near the burning things such as a stove and candle or in a humid place By so doing the temperature in the interior portion of the sewing machine can rise or the coating of the power cord can melt causing fire or electrical shock When the sewing machine is soiled put a sm...

Page 7: ...ns 25 27 Start stop button 25 Reverse button 26 Auto Lock Stop button 26 Needle up down position button 27 Speed limiting adjustment lever 27 Memory buttons 28 Memory button 28 Arrow button 28 Clear button 28 Function buttons 29 30 Sitch width adjustment button 29 Stitch length adjustment button 29 Mode selection button 30 Mirror button 30 Selection buttons 31 Direct pattern selection buttons 31 N...

Page 8: ...ding 52 triple cording 52 Satin stitch sewing 53 Quilting 53 Scalloping 54 Scallop hem 54 Scallop stitch 54 Gathering 55 Smocking 56 Free motion darning embroidery and monogramming 57 58 Darning 57 Embroidery 58 Monogramming 58 Fagoting 59 Patchworkstich 59 Mirror 60 Twin needle 61 Walking foot 62 Memory 63 65 combining patterns or letters 63 64 Adding patterns or letters 64 Clearing patterns or l...

Page 9: ... Warning functions 66 Instruction message display 66 Warning beeping sound 66 Maintenance 67 68 Cleaning the screen 67 Cleaning the sewing machine surface 67 Cleaning the hook 68 Trouble shooting guide 69 70 9 ...

Page 10: ...bin winder spindle 13 Bobbin winder stopper 14 LCD screen 15 Stitch length adjustment button 16 Stitch width adjustment button 17 Memory buttons 18 Selection buttons 19 Function buttons 20 Quick reference plate 21 Hole for 22 Handwheel 23 Main power switch 24 Main plug socket 25 Foot controller connector 26 Horizontal spool pin 27 Bobbin thread guide 28 Presser foot pressure 29 Upper thread guide ...

Page 11: ...foot 25 Walking foot 26 Twin needle Power cord 18 Foot controller 19 Hard case Standard presser foot Blind stitch foot Decorate stitch foot Spool cap Spool cap Auxiliary spool pin Note Accessories are stored inside the accessory box Optional accessories are not supplied with this machine they are however available as special accessories from your local dealer The styrofoam inside the hard case is ...

Page 12: ... APPLICATION PRESSER FOOT General sewing Patchwork stitches Decorative stitching Smocking Fagoting etc PRESSER FOOT APPLICATION Inserting zippers Blind stitch foot F Blind hem stitching Satin stitch sewing Button sewing Decorate stitch foot A NEEDLE NEEDLE Rolled hemming foot K Optional Narrow hemming Gathering foot Optional Gathering Straight stitch foot P Optional Quilting Cording foot M Optiona...

Page 13: ... efficient appliance Attention Always make sure that the machine is unplugged from power source and the main switch is off O when the machine is not in use and before inserting or removing parts Polarized plug information Foot Control This appliance has a polarized plug one blade wider than the other to reduce the risk of electrical shock this plug will fit in a polarized outlet only one way If th...

Page 14: ...d to the left which is the sewing position 6 Hold the thread tail securely in one hand 7 Press on the foot control or the Start stop button to start winding the bobbin 8 After the bobbin has wound a few turns stop the machine and cut the thread near the hole of the bobbin Continue filling the bobbin until it is full Once the spool is full it rotates slowly Release the pedal or stop the machine Pus...

Page 15: ...bobbin the needle and presser foot must be fully raised Pull the thread through the slit A With a finger held gently on top of the bobbin Draw the thread at the arrow markings into the stitch plate thread guide from A to B Pull the thread at the arrow markings into the stitch plate thread guide from B to C To cut off excess thread pull thread back over the cutting off blade at point C Close the bo...

Page 16: ...pass the thread from right to the left through the slotted eye of the take up lever and then downwards again 7 Pass the thread behind the flat horizontal thread guide Guide the thread through the wire loop Pull the end of the thread through the needle from front to rear and pull out about 10 cm of thread Use the needle threader to thread the needle On the next page spool cap spool cap spool cap Th...

Page 17: ...e hook pin passes through the needle eye Hold the thread loosely and release the lever slowly The hook will turn and pass the thread through the needle eye forming a loop Pull the thread through the needle eye Take the thread in front of the needle Using the needle threader Raise the needle to its highest position and lower the presser foot Attention Turn power switch to the off position O 17 ...

Page 18: ...ou counterclockwise lowering then raising the needle 2 Gently pull on the upper thread to bring the bobbin thread up through the needle plate hole The bobbin thread will come up in a loop 3 Pull both threads to the back under the presser foot Raising up the lower thread 18 ...

Page 19: ...c loosen the pressure by turning the screw counterclockwise to move the screw upward and the pressure decreased If kept turning the screw it could be take out By that time just turn the screw clockwise it could be locked back and readjust the pressure For heavy fabric tighten the pressure by turning the screw clockwise to move the screw downward and the pressure increased Once screw could not be m...

Page 20: ... of wear and causing problems Insert the needle following the illustrated instructions A Loosen the needle clamp screw and tighten again after inserting the new needle The flat side of the shaft should be towards the back B Insert the needle as far up as it will go Needles must be in perfect condition Problems can occur with Bent needles Blunt needles Damaged points 20 ...

Page 21: ... is directly above the pin d Press the black lever e Lower the presser foot holder b and the presser foot f will engage automatically Raise the presser foot bar a Remove and Attach the presser foot holder b as illustrated Attach the g in the slot as illustrated Adjust according to need for hems pleats etc Removing the presser foot 1 Attaching the presser foot 2 Removing and Attaching the presser f...

Page 22: ...sewing table off the machine the feed dog adjustment lever can be seen on the base in back of the sewing machine Sliding the lever to the b will lower the feed dog for example during button sewing If you wish to continue sewing normally slide the lever to the a in order to raise the feed dogs The feed dog will not rise up if you do not turn the handwheel even if the lever is slid to the right Make...

Page 23: ... cottons voile serge silk muslin Qiana interlocks cotton knits tricot jerseys crepes woven polyester shirt blouse fabrics Light duty thread in cotton nylon polyester or cotton wrapped polyester Most threads sold are medium size and suitable for these fabrics and needle sizes Use polyester threads on synthetic materials and cotton on natural woven fabrics for best results Always use the same thread...

Page 24: ...tern II mode 1 Needle up 2 Auto stop 3 Pattern number 4 Suggested presser foot 5 Alphabet mode 6 Stitch width 7 Number of current unit 8 Total number of unit 9 Memory 1 2 5 6 9 3 6 4 7 8 Pattern I mode 1 Needle down 2 Auto stop 3 Reverse 4 Pattern number 5 Pattern mode 6 Suggested presser foot 7 Mirror 8 Buttonhole lever 9 Stitch width 10 Number of current unit 11 Total number of unit 12 Memory 13...

Page 25: ...tons Start stop button Green Red Orange The machine will start running when Start stop button is pressed and will stop when pressed the second time The machine will rotate slowly at the beginning of the sewing The sewing speed can be controlled by the speed limiting adjustment lever This way you may operate the machine without foot control Color of button indicates machine status Ready to start an...

Page 26: ...e machine will automatically stop The LCD will display the figures until the machine is stopped I I Auto Lock Stop button When the Direct Patterns 1 7 and Patterns 00 14 are selected the machine will immediately sew 3 locking stitches when the Auto lock button is pressed then automatically stop The LCD will display the figure until the machine is stopped When the Patterns 25 99 are selected press ...

Page 27: ...wn position button you decide whether the needle shall stop in the up position or in the material when you stop sewing Press the button so that the arrow on the LCD screen will point upward and the needle will stop in the highest position When you press the button so that the arrow points downward the machine will stop with the needle in the lowest position During sewing press the button the machi...

Page 28: ... mode and return Direct mode The Direct mode patterns and Patterns 24 can not be memorized Use the arrow or button to confirm the pattern memorized by pressing this button in memory mode Press this button when the incorrect character is selected Each press of this button erases one character or press this button to remove an added pattern when sewing combinations of characters or decorative stitch...

Page 29: ...ed stitch width which will be indicated by numbers on the LCD screen The stitch width can be regulated by pressing the stitch width adjustment buttons Certain stitches have a limited stitch width For a narrower stitch press the button left For a wider stitch press the button right The stitch width can be adjusted between 0 0 7 0 Certain stitches have a limited stitch width When the Direct Patterns...

Page 30: ...ction Utility and decorative pattern mode Stitch selection using number buttons Alphabet mode Character selection using number buttons Mirror button Pattern can be mirror imaged along a vertical axis by pressing the button except for the Direct Patterns 0 8 9 and Patterns I 15 23 The LCD will display the figure and the machine will continue to sew the reflected pattern until the mirror function is...

Page 31: ...to select the utility patterns shown beside the number button when the mode button is set at the Direct mode Press the number buttons for selecting the pattern needed Except the Direct pattern mode the other mode can be selected by pressing the desired numbers For example pattern 32 31 ...

Page 32: ... 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 Pattern chart The portion marked in colored on the chart shows the one unit of each pattern below Direct Patterns 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 82 83 ...

Page 33: ... you will always obtain a nicer stitch and less fabric puckering when the upper thread appears on the bottom side of your fabric Thread tension is too loose for straight stitch sewing Turn dial to higher number Thread tension is too tight for straight stitch sewing Turn dial to lower number Normal thread tension for zig zag and decorative sewing Normal thread tension for straight stitch sewing Rev...

Page 34: ...le as a pivot and turn the fabric 5 Lower the presser foot and resume sewing Reverse Free arm Reverse stitching is used to secure the threads at the beginning and at the end of a seam Press the reverse button and sew 4 5 stitches The machine will sew forward when the button is released Free arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular areas such as pant hems and cuffs Useful skills 5 1 2 3 4 34 ...

Page 35: ... of an increased thickness lower the needle and raise the presser foot Press the toe of the foot and push in the black button then lower the foot and continue sewing The black button releases automatically after sewing few stitches You also can place another piece of fabric with the same thickness at the back of the seam Or support the presser foot while feeding by hand and sewing toward the folde...

Page 36: ...cker the fabric thread and needle the longer the stitch should be Adjusting the stitch width Adjusting the stitch length The maximum zigzag stitch width for zigzag stitching is 7 0 however the width can be reduced on any patterns The width increases as you press the stitch width adjustment button from 0 0 7 0 The density of zigzag stitches increase as the setting of stitch length approaches 0 3 Ne...

Page 37: ...t is good for joining durable fabric such as denims These stitches can also be used as a decorative top stitch Straight stretch stitch is used to add triple reinforcement to stretch and hardwearing seams Triple zigzag stretch stitch is suitable for firm fabrics like denim poplin duck etc Stretch stitches Straight stretch stitch Straight stitch 02 03 07 A T 07 07 02 03 37 ...

Page 38: ...sting foot Overcasting stitches Attention The overcasting foot should be used to sew with patterns 05 and 08 only and do not set the stitch width narrower than 5 0 It is possible that needle could hit the presser foot and break when sewing other patterns and width Using the standard presser foot Change the presser foot to the T Sewing the overcasting along the edge of the fabric so that the needle...

Page 39: ... the fabric under the foot Turn the handwheel forwards by hand until the needle swings fully to the left It should just pierce the fold of the fabric If it does not adjust the stitch width accordingly Adjust the guide b by turning the knob a so that the guide just rests against the fold Sew slowly guiding the fabric carefully along the edge of the guide Turn over the fabric Fold the fabric as illu...

Page 40: ...l to check that the needle goes cleanly into the left and right holes of the button Before sewing press the Auto lock button to sew reinforcement stitches automatically at the beginning and at the end of the stitch If a shank is required ex sew on coats or jackets place a darning needle on top of the button and sew Pull end of the upper thread to the wrong side of the fabric then tie it with the b...

Page 41: ...is determined by the button inserted in the button plate The thread should be passed through the hole in the presser foot then be placed under the foot 3 0 7 0 0 3 1 0 3 0 5 5 0 3 1 0 5 5 7 0 0 3 1 0 3 0 7 0 1 0 2 0 3 0 7 0 1 0 3 0 D 15 16 18 19 17 20 21 Note Before sewing a buttonhole on your project practice on a scrap piece of the same type of fabric 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 For thin or medium fabr...

Page 42: ...osition it behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot Select the buttonhole stitch Adjust the stitch width and the stitch length to the desired width and density Position the fabric under the presser foot with the front end of the buttonhole mark aligned with the center line on the buttonhole foot Note When you select any buttonhole pattern LCD screen will be demonstrated the figure it is to remind...

Page 43: ...of the buttonhole being careful not to cut any stitches on either side Use a pin as a stopper at the bar tack so you do not cut too much 15 16 18 19 17 20 21 Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back as shown Attention After sewing the buttonholes raise the buttonhole lever all the way up to its original position for other sewing 43 ...

Page 44: ...ds to the front of the foot and insert them into the grooves then temporarily tie them there Lower the presser foot and start sewing Set the stitch width to match the diameter of the gimp thread Once sewing is completed pull the gimp thread gently to remove any slack then trim off any excess It is suggested that you use interfacing on the backside of the fabric Note Making a buttonhole on stretch ...

Page 45: ...arge 7 0mm 1 4 inch B Medium 6 0mm 15 64 inch C Small 5 0mm 3 16 inch Lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the stitching and then lower the presser foot lever Once sewing is completed the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches then stops Make a hole at the center using an eyelet punch A B C A 5 0 6 0 7 0 22 Note If thin thread is used the stitching may be coarse If this ...

Page 46: ...tton holder to rear Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot to the desired length Baste the upper fabric and the under fabric together Select the needle position Lower the presser foot over the center of the tear The size of one darn cycle is variable However the maximum stitch length is 2 6cm 1 inch and the maximum stitch width is 7mm 9 32 inch a The length of sewing b The width of sewing D...

Page 47: ... or cross sew to get better sewing result Darning stitches are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back as shown Position the fabric so that the needle is 2mm 1 16 inch in front of the area to be darned and then lower the presser foot lever 23 2mm Note When lowering the presser foot do not push in the front of the presser foot otherwise the darning will not be sewn with the correct size...

Page 48: ...tonhole foot to the desired length Bar tack stitch Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot Pull down the buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left hand and then start sewing Bar tack stitches are sewn As an example the illustration shows the procedure for sewing bar tack...

Page 49: ...titch length to maximum set the tension below 2 and baste the remaining length of the fabric Press open the seam allowance Place the zipper face down on the seam allowance with the teeth against the seam line Baste the zipper tape Attach the zipper foot Attach the right side of the presser foot pin to the holder when sewing the left side of the zipper Attach the left side of the presser foot pin t...

Page 50: ... in reverse to lock Increase the stitch length to maximum set the tension below 2 and baste the remaining length of the fabric Fold back to the left seam allowance Turn under the right seam allowance to form 3mm 1 8 inch fold Attach the zipper foot Attach the right side of the presser foot pin to the holder when sewing the left side of the zipper Attach the left side of the presser foot pin to the...

Page 51: ...e spiral opening of Move fabric back and forth until the fold forms a scroll shape rolled hemming foot Lower the presser foot and start sewing slowly guiding the raw edge of the fabric in front of the evenly into the scroll of the foot rolled hemming foot Narrow hemming The accessory is optional It is not included with this machine rolled hemming foot K 3 5 1 5 3 0 00 The is used to stitch the nar...

Page 52: ...ate a pretty swirled design on a jacket or vest or sew over three strands of cording for border trims Pearl cotton knitting yarn embroidery floss lace thread fine wool or lily yarn can be used for cording Triple cording Mark the design on the fabric Insert three cords into the grooves of the foot from the right side opening Place the cord under the grooves of the cording foot and pull the cord abo...

Page 53: ...length and width When sewing very thin fabrics it is suggested that you use interfacing on the backside of the fabric Note 3 5 7 0 0 5 1 0 3 5 1 0 3 0 Quilting Sew the first row and move over the fabric to sew successive rows with the guide riding along the previous row of stitching Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is call Quilting The top layer is usually formed by ...

Page 54: ...fore it is sewn The wave shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called scalloping It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of projects Scallop hem Fold the fabric right sides together Sew along the folded edge as illustrated Cut the fabric along the seam leaving an allowance of 3mm 1 8 inch for seaming Notch the allowance Turn fabric over and push out the curved s...

Page 55: ...he waistband on a dress bodice The Gathering foot accessory is optional It is not included with this machine Note When testing machine for adjustments to achieve desired fullness work with 10 increments of the fabric trims or elastic This makes it easier to determine the adjustments and how much change is needed for your project Always test on your project fabric and on the same grainline as will ...

Page 56: ...ure the threads at the other end Reduce the tension if necessary and sew decorative pattern stitches between the straight seams Pull out the basting Smocking The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called smocking It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric Bobbin thread T A 13 14 Basting 56 ...

Page 57: ... over the hole in a constant and continuous movement Turn the work by 1 4 and sew over the first stitching moving the work slower over the hole to separate the threads and not form big gaps between the threads Darning Free motion darning is accomplished without the sewing machine internal feed system Movement of the fabric is controlled by the operator It is necessary to coordinate sewing speed an...

Page 58: ...You will get longer stitches by moving the hoop faster and shorter stitches by moving the hoop more slowly Secure with a reinforcement stitches at the end by press Auto lock button Monogramming Select the zigzag stitch pattern and adjust the stitch width as desired Sew at a constant speed moving the hoop slowly along the lettering When the letter is finished Secure with a reinforcement stitches at...

Page 59: ...ded edges of the fabric pieces with a gap of 4mm 1 8 inch and baste them onto a piece of thin paper or water soluble stabilizer sheet Align the center of the presser foot with the center of the two pieces of fabric and begin sewing After sewing remove the paper Patchworkstich T Thin paper Basting T A 12 12 13 14 44 Stitching across an open seam is called fagoting It is used on blouses and children...

Page 60: ...nction and the machine will sew the reflected pattern until you press the mirror button again Note can not be mirror imaged Mirror imaged patterns can also be combined with other patterns Direct Patterns 0 8 9 and Patterns I 15 23 A Normal pattern sewing B Mirror pattern sewing A B 60 ...

Page 61: ...ly and make sure to maintain a low speed to insure quality stitching Twin needle Thread each needle separately Note Make sure that the two threads used to thread the twin needle are of the same weight You can use one or two colors Note When sewing with twin needle always proceed slowly and make sure to maintain a low speed to insure quality stitching Select a stitch pattern and start to sewing Exc...

Page 62: ...lways try to sew first without the walking foot accessory which should be used only when necessary It is easier to guide the fabric and you have a better view of the seam when using the standard regular foot on your machine Your sewing machine offers excellent stitch quality on a wide range of fabrics from delicate chiffons to multiple layers of denim The Walking Foot accessory equalizes the feedi...

Page 63: ... patterns can be stored for later use Since stored patterns are not lost after the sewing machine is turned off they can be recalled at any time This is convenient for patterns such as names that will be used often Note The machine has a program memory that can retain 30 units of stitches Multiple patterns selecting from pattern modes can be combined and sewn together All the units in the memory c...

Page 64: ...terns or letters Adding patterns or letters Attention The selected pattern will be cleared from the memory module after closing the machine if you do not press the button again when you have completed your selection Press the button to leave the memory mode and return to the Direct mode While in the memory mode press the button or the button until the stitch number you have selected is displayed t...

Page 65: ...press the Auto stop button to cancel the function in the memory mode The will disappear from the LCD screen Press on the foot control or press the start stop button to start the sewing machine Sewing patterns repeats until you press start stop button to stop the machine On the LCD screen sewing stitch data is indicated Recalling and sewing the memorized pattern Press the button to enter the memory...

Page 66: ...the buttonhole lever When you select any buttonhole pattern or darning pattern LCD screen will show the figure It is to remind you to lower the buttonhole lever Bobbin winding When the bobbin winder spindle is activated for bobbin winding in the rightmost position this figure appears on the LCD screen as a reminder Note If the problem is still not solved please contact your local dealer Attention ...

Page 67: ...a cloth in mild detergent squeeze it out firmly and then wipe the surface After cleaning it once in this way wipe the surface again with a dry cloth Attention Disconnect the power cord from the wall socket before cleaning the screen and sewing machine surface otherwise injury or electrical shock may result Attention This machine is equipped with a 100mW LED lamp If lamp replacement is needed pleas...

Page 68: ...bbin case with a brush Also clean them using a soft dry cloth Remove the needle plate cover and bobbin Cleaning the hook If lint and bits of thread accumulate in the hook this will interfere with the smooth operation of the machine Check regularly and clean the stitching mechanism when necessary Disconnect the machine from the wall outlet before carrying out any maintenance Attention 68 ...

Page 69: ...ed wrong 3 The thread tension is too tight 16 33 23 20 16 20 15 15 20 20 23 21 16 20 20 23 23 33 16 15 23 33 23 29 33 1 Select a finer needle 2 Readjust the stitch length 3 Loosen the thread tension 1 Check the threading 2 Thread the bobbin case as illustrated 3 The needle size must suit the fabric and thread 4 Correct the thread tension 1 Insert a new needle 2 Insert the needle correctly flat sid...

Page 70: ...chine 3 Lower the presser foot lifter 4 Return the bobbin winder spindle to the left position Remove the upper thread and bobbin case turn the handwheel backwards and forwards by hand and remove the thread remands 1 Fluff or oil have collected on the hook or needle bar 2 The needle is damaged 1 Clean the hook and feed dog as described 2 Replace the needle 1 Poor quality thread 2 The bobbin case is...

Page 71: ......

Page 72: ... 2341 FAX 81 42 357 2379 Copyright 2015 JUKI CORPORATION All rights reserved throughout the world Reservados todos los derechos en todo el mundo Tous les droits sont réservés à travers le monde Tutti i diritti riservati in ogni paese del mondo 000715 021H3J0101 EN ...

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