Assembly of the controller
Shorten the yellow cables of the Jive controller to a length of approx. 75mm and solder the 3.5mm gold bushes to the ends.
Plus and minus cable remain unchanged. Only 4mm gold plugs are added.
Glue a heat sink on the metal plate of the controller using heat conduction glue. Otherwise the heat conduction is too low.
The controller is attached to the centre of the carbon plate using two small strips of double-sided tape, so that the front edges
of the two capacitors are aligned to the front edge of the plate.
Only one connecting cable is enclosed to the controller. In any case you need a second one of the same length.
(I am legally bound to point out that the adherence of my following recommendations is at owner`s risk because the
manufacturer Kontronik does not give such an advice officially).
As far as my experience goes I have had more than 300 flights without any disturbances within more than one year. Four
additional test pilots having had 600 flights until the date of publication of this manual are of the same opinion. According to
our experience the toroid in the cable of the 2.4GHz system is not necessary, so you can remove it. Then the length of the
cable is sufficient to connect the receiver. When using a normal system the toroid has to remain in the cable and the length of
the cable has to be extended correspondingly.
In contrast to the recommendation of using a buffer battery in parallel to the Jive BEC we all fly our helicopters without this
additional receiver battery. The Futaba servos have not caused any problems due to the overload of the BEC. However, you
should not use any servos which consume even higher currents than this servos. A small buffer battery having a lower
capacitiy is not reasonable in the case of a total failure of the BEC, because it is overloaded anyway due to the high currents
of the servo in connection with the 3 axis stabilisation.
The advantage of the BEC is that you avoid the unnecessary additional weight of a receiver power supply and that you do not
have to worry about the charge condition of a second battery on-board.
In this connection it is important that you take care of your batteries and that you check them from time to time. A
disconnected plug due to a bad soldered connection does not only mean in this case „motor down“ but also „receiver down“.
However, as already mentioned this has not happened after nearly 1000 flights in total. Statistically seen you can rely on the
safety of the system. There is not any absolute safety when using model helicopters because at any time a servo, the 3 axis
stabilisation or a mechanical component may fail.
On the front side of the controller you find two connectors for the master and the slave cable. After having attached the
controller you cannot see the plug labelling on the side lying on the bottom. That is the reason why it is reasonable to add a
marking to the upper side. The master cable is located on the left side (according to the flight direction). The orange pulse
cables of both connections are located on the right side (according to the flight direction).
Also mark the other end of the master cable to find it later after having laid both cables in the chassis.
Now lay both cables together to the back on the left chassis side within the battery slot on the top at the hem of both plates,
so that they cannot be seen from outside (see photo on the following page). In this case it is reasonable to use a flexible
protective cover protecting the cables. Secure the harness using cable ties.
The cables are led to the top below the last cross-bolt of the mechanics. Connect the additional power supply through the
slave cable directly to the free slot of your receiver. Connect the connector of the master cable to the throttle channel of your
receiver or to a free channel, depending on if you wish to adjust the speed using already programmed flight conditions with
the corresponding throttle curves or using a free slider switch.
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