For the best results, the graver must be heeled, or set-up.
This task takes some experimentation and practice to produce
satisfactory results. The finish of the engraved cut is greatly
affected by the finish of the graver heel. For a bright cut, finish
the heel using polishing paper or a ceramic lap.
Here is what the heel accomplishes:
A. It raises the working angle of the graver to a convenient height
from the work surface.
B. It provides depth control.
C. It gives clearance when working on irregular surfaces and
prevents the bottom surface of the graver from dragging on
the edges of the cut when making curved cuts.
D. It improves the quality and appearance of the cut.
Usually a heel angle of 15 degrees is used. Only a small amount
of material needs to be removed. A few light strokes on a fine, hard
stone is sufficient. Don’t be confused by the tremendous number
and variety of gravers available in the supply catalogs; virtually all
work can be accomplished with a small variety of points.
FOR A COMPLETE LINE OF GRAVERS VISIT
THE GRS TOOLS GRAVER WEBSITE:
grstools.com/gravers-burs-and-more/
TIPS
The
GraverSmith
provides an effective, unique method for
performing a variety of functions in many materials. You may not
achieve effective results with the machine at first. In fact, your
initial attempts may be disappointing or downright discouraging.
Begin by expecting a learning period, whether you have had
experience engraving by another method or are a novice. After
the initial learning period, the results and the satisfaction derived
from use of the machine are fantastic! It takes a little practice,
some learning, and perhaps some re-learning. It may seem
awkward and ineffective at first — like your first attempt to ride a
bicycle, remember?
The easiest and most productive way to learn quickly is to work
with someone accomplished in the use of the
GraverSmith
. If
this is not possible, the information contained in these “TIPS”
will be helpful. A most valuable and useful information source is
James B. Meek’s book, The Art of Engraving (#002-164) ... we
recommend it highly.
Most of the information in this section is directed toward the task
of metal engraving. Even if your purpose for using the machine
differs, this information is relevant and helpful. The engraving of
metal, especially steel, is most difficult, and demanding. When
the principles of metal engraving are understood, then other uses
will be less demanding. We have never known a person who
could effectively carve a deep relief scene that could not easily
set a stone, florentine or engrave a ring, matte finish a piece of
jewelry, or carve wood.
Here are some reasons why you may not achieve effective results:
• The concept of variable power applied to the handpiece
seems strange at first.
• Coordination of power and tool cutting action with the foot
throttle might feel awkward, but after a small amount of
practice it will become natural.
• It seems strange and different at first - but extremely effective
when mastered. Again, remember how easy it was to ride a
bicycle after you learned how. Successful cutting requires just
the right amount of forward pressure on the handpiece, and
proper manipulation of the throttle.
TECHNIQUES TO TRY
• Turn the machine ON, hold the handpiece in your hand, and
work the foot throttle to get the feel of the power variation
from light, short strokes to heavy, long strokes. You will begin
to anticipate the foot throttle position for the various power
settings desired.
• When cutting or engraving, hold the handpiece as you would
a table knife, not a pencil. Place your index finger on the
graver or chisel as you would on a knife blade to exert slight
downward pressure. Hold it like a pencil only when stippling,
background matting, chipping, etc.
• Place the tool cutting point on the work piece BEFORE
applying power with the throttle. Attempting to enter the cut
with the power ON and the handpiece stroking will quickly dull
or damage the tool point.
• Apply power with the throttle only AFTER positioning the tool
on the work. Use slight forward pressure to keep the tool point
moving forward into the cut. Both tool angle and downward
pressure control the depth of cut. Avoid using too much
downward pressure; it’s tiring and often indicates the need for
better tool sharpening or a more relaxed technique.
• Vary the power input with the throttle to control the speed and
depth of cut. Do not let the cutting action get ahead of your
ability to guide the tool. Stop the throttle action to reposition
