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there may be others like yourself who could be flying
nearby. If both of your models happen to be on the same
frequency, interference will likely cause one or both of the
models to crash. An acceptable minimum distance between
flying models is five miles, so keep this in mind when
searching for a flying site. 

In addition to obstacles, it is important to be aware of people
who may wander into the area once you begin flying. At
AMA club flying sites it is a severe rule infraction to fly over
others, and this is a good rule to follow if flying elsewhere.
Please be aware, R/C models tend to attract interested
onlookers. Onlookers pose two main problems. First is the
danger of actually crashing your model into a person,
causing injury. Second is the distraction of those who ask
you questions while you are trying to concentrate on flying.
To minimize or avoid this problem, have an assistant
standing by who can spot people who wander into your
flying site (so you can avoid flying over them) and who can
perform “crowd control” if people start to gather.

IMPORTANT:

If you are an inexperienced modeler we

strongly urge you to seek the assistance of a competent,
experienced R/C pilot to check your model for airworthiness
AND to teach you how to fly. No matter how stable or
“forgiving” the BLT is, attempting to learn to fly on your own
is dangerous and may result in destruction of your model or
even injury to yourself and others. Therefore, find an
instructor and fly only under his or her guidance and
supervision until you have acquired the skills necessary for
safe and fully controlled operation of your model. 

We recommend flying the BLT when the wind is no greater
than five miles per hour. Less experienced flyers should fly
the BLT only in calm (less than one mile per hour)
conditions. Frequently, winds are calm in the early morning
and early evening. Often these are the most enjoyable
times to fly anyway!

Until you have the BLT properly trimmed for level flight, we
recommend having an assistant hand-launch the model
instead of taking off from the ground. 

Turn on the transmitter and plug the battery into the 
speed control.

IMPORTANT:  

Confirm that the transmitter operates the

controls by moving the sticks and watching the surfaces

respond. Occasionally, electric models have been launched
with the transmitter turned off or the battery disconnected
from the speed control!

When ready to launch, the assistant should hold the bottom
of the fuselage behind the landing gear, then raise the
model high above his head and point it

into the wind

. With

the pilot 

(that would be you!)

standing behind the plane, fully

advance the throttle to start the motor. As soon as the motor
is at full power, the hand launcher should gently toss the
plane into the air at a 

level

or 

slightly

nose-up attitude. Be

certain the model is being launched 

into

the wind and be

immediately ready to make corrections to keep the airplane
flying straight, level and into the wind.

When the model has gained adequate flying speed under
its own power, 

gently

pull the elevator stick back until the

airplane starts a gradual climb. Many beginners tend to pull
too hard causing the model to stall, so be gentle on the
elevator and don’t panic. If you do pull too hard and you
notice the model losing speed, release the elevator stick
and allow the model to regain airspeed. 

Continue a 

gradual

climb and establish a gentle turn (away

from yourself) until the airplane reaches an altitude of 75 to
100 feet.

The main purpose of the first few flights is to learn how the
model behaves and to adjust the trims for level flight. After
the model has climbed to a safe altitude reduce the throttle
slightly to slow the model, yet maintain altitude. The BLT
should fly well and maintain adequate airspeed at about half
to 3/4 throttle. 

Adjust the elevator trim so the model flies level at the
throttle setting you are using. Adjust the rudder trim to level
the wings. It may take a few passes to get the trims
adjusted, but this should be your first priority once at a
comfortable altitude. Continue to fly around, executing turns
and making mental notes (or having your assistant take
notes for you) of what additional adjustments or C.G.
changes may be required to fine tune the model so it flies
the way you like.

If the BLT reaches a high enough altitude, you may
periodically cut off the motor power and glide. This may
extend the flight time by several minutes, especially if you
fly into a rising air current. 

Flight

Takeoff

FLYING

22

Summary of Contents for BLT

Page 1: ...resulting from the use by the user of the final user assembled product By the act of using the user assembled product the user accepts all resulting liability If the buyers are not prepared to accept...

Page 2: ...tu flying site see Find a Safe Place to Fly on page 21 Additionally Park Flyers are perfect for those evenings at the field when everybody else is packing up their gear the wind has died and there is...

Page 3: ...ired to power the radio The Great Planes ElectriFly C 5 Nano High Frequency Electronic Speed Control GPMM2000 is recommended for the BLT If you purchase the complete motor and gear drive system the sp...

Page 4: ...asonic 7 cell 1200 mAh NiMh GPMP0300 for advanced pilots requiring the longest duration not recommended for beginners due to the fact that it is heavier than the 550 mAh batteries Note If flying the B...

Page 5: ...ed in the tail only where necessary we recommend using small T pins HCAR5100 or small straight pins found in craft stores Do not stick pins into the sticks near the ends or the wood may split 4 If you...

Page 6: ...2 2 4mm 1 8 3 2mm 5 32 4mm 3 16 4 8mm 1 4 6 4mm 3 8 9 5mm 1 2 12 7mm 5 8 15 9mm 3 4 19mm 1 25 4mm 2 50 8mm 3 76 2mm 6 152 4mm 12 304 8mm 15 381mm 18 457 2mm 21 533 4mm 24 609 6mm 30 762mm 36 914 4mm M...

Page 7: ...with 220 grit sandpaper very lightly sand the fin all over Be sure to sand in the direction of the longest sticks 6 Tape the leading edge of the rudder to the trailing edge of the fin so that the fin...

Page 8: ...r gussets of one of the elevators 5 Repeat step 4 to build the second elevator half 6 In the right elevator half use a hobby knife to cut the 1 16 1 6mm notch for the elevator control horn 7 Tape the...

Page 9: ...ill counteract each other 3 Pin one of the main spars in position over the plan aligning one end of the main spar with the outside edge of the root rib W1A 4 Pin one of the 1 32 x 3 4 x 24 8mm x 19mm...

Page 10: ...ing edge sheet when sanding the taper sand across the grain not lengthwise 10 Glue the top trailing edge sheet to the top of the wing ribs and the aft edge of the bottom trailing edge sheet 11 From a...

Page 11: ...dihedral brace 2 Using a hobby knife carefully cut a 1 16 slot in rib W1A just behind the main spar on both wing panels Trial fit the dihedral brace in the slots 3 Trial fit the wing halves together W...

Page 12: ...inst the building board Glue the second fuselage side to the fuselage bottom and the five formers Note You may need to sand the formers flush with the side and bottom 6 Remove the pins holding the fus...

Page 13: ...ront of the wing pylon to act as a spacer Glue the laser cut 3 32 2 4mm balsa pylon forward plate to the forward end of the wing pylon The forward plate should be flush with the sides of the wing pylo...

Page 14: ...he wing to first stall next to the fuselage not at the tip Because the Basic Light Trainer is designed to be very light washout would be difficult to build into the wing The following procedure will e...

Page 15: ...t the fuselage is not twisted If it is dampen the fuse slightly and twist it in the opposite direction until the wood dries Recheck the stabilizer wing alignment When satisfied with the fit use thin C...

Page 16: ...r battery out through the front You can glue a couple of small pieces of the white tube to the bottom of the fuselage and route the receiver antenna through the tubes towards the tail Follow these ass...

Page 17: ...ops of CA along the joint between the motor and the motor wedge to secure the motor 4 Plug the motor into the electronic speed control Secure the motor and electronic speed control wires to the fusela...

Page 18: ...the pushrod adjuster 9 Remove the aft pushrod from the control horn and cut it at the mark Make a slight bend in the end of the pushrod so that it fits tightly in the pushrod adjuster 10 Remove the s...

Page 19: ...Trainer you may wish to experiment by shifting the balance up to 1 4 forward or backward to change its flying characteristics Moving the balance forward may improve the smoothness and stability but t...

Page 20: ...full power and the prop is rotating in the correct direction Make certain all control surfaces elevators and rudder are secure the pushrods are connected the controls respond in the correct direction...

Page 21: ...ENERAL 1 I will not fly my model aircraft in competition or in the presence of spectators until it has been proven to be airworthy by having been previously successfully flight tested 2 I will not fly...

Page 22: ...irm that the transmitter operates the controls by moving the sticks and watching the surfaces respond Occasionally electric models have been launched with the transmitter turned off or the battery dis...

Page 23: ...frequently a takeoff from the ground is called an ROG rise off ground takeoff Landings on grass will be a little rough but doing a ROG takeoff from grass will probably not be possible with the BLT If...

Page 24: ...TWO VIEW...

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