GE Zoneline 5500 Data Manual Download Page 25

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Masonry Wall Construction (Cont.)

The wall case should be installed during construction and
lintels should be used to support the blocks above the wall
case. The wall case

will not

support the concrete block. The

installation instructions show how the wall case must be
secured to the masonry and caulked. Do not remove the
cardboard stiffener supplied with the wall case until ready to
install the chassis. See page 29 for details of installation in
masonry wall.

For existing masonry construction, wall openings must be
made by removing concrete blocks to achieve the proper
size opening. Consult the builder, architect, or owner to
determine the necessity for lintels to support the block
above the wall case.

Anchor bolts are normally required to secure the case to the
wall and shims may be required to prevent distortion of the
wall case when securing the wall case to the wall. Field
supplied case angles can be used to position and secure the
wall case to the wall and to cover oversized wall openings.

Brick, Frame, Stucco and Shingle Construction

For new construction, the opening for the wall case should
be framed and the wall case inserted into the opening
during construction. Lintels should be used when the
building material is heavy and is not self supporting (such as
brick). The wall case will fit an opening of six courses of
standard brick or five courses of jumbo brick. Wall framing
in this type construction is normally on 16" centers and the
wall case will fit a framed opening spanning three 16" O.C.
2" x 4" stud spaces.

For existing construction the indoor and outdoor wall will
need to be cut out, allowing for clearances of 1/8" on all
sides of the wall case. Work should begin on the inside wall.
Cut the correct dimensions and mark (using drill holes) the
outside wall from each corner of the inside cutout. Studding
that interferes with the opening must be removed and a
suitable frame constructed to secure the wall case and
provide adequate support for case and chassis.

Preparation of the Wall Case for All Types of
Construction

As shipped, the RAB71 or RAB77 is ready for installation.
Do not remove the stiffener from inside the wall case or the
weather closure panel from the outside face of the wall case
until the outdoor grille and chassis are ready to be installed.

Installation of Wall Case in Wall Opening

1. Position the wall case into the wall. The room side edge of

the RAB71 or RAB77 wall case should be at least flush with
the finished wall for line cord installations and permanent
connection installations when no sub-base is used, and
should project into the room at least 2-3/8" when a sub-
base is used. If the minimum exterior dimensions are not
met, refer to page 27 and 28. The outside edge of the wall
case should extend at least 1/4" beyond the outside wall.
This is necessary for proper caulking, to prevent sealing the
drain holes in the rear flange of the wall case, and to
facilitate the installation of an accessory drain, if used.

The wall case should be level from side to side and from
level to 1/4 bubble tilt to the outdoors. The condensate
disposal system in the unit is designed to dissipate the
condensate water generated during cooling operation in
accordance with ARI standards and actually uses this
water for maximum unit efficiency. A level unit will also
insure proper performance of the Internal Condensate
Removal (ICR) system optional on heat pump units.

2. The wall case should be secured to the wall at both sides.

Use a minimum of two screws or other fastening device
on each side. See Figure 2 page 26. Mark the wall case on
each side 2" from the bottom and 2" from the top at a
point where basic wall structure is located. Drill wall case
and use fasteners appropriate for wall construction. All
holes for fasteners in the side of the wall case must be at
least 2" up from the bottom of the wall case.

Never locate

screws or put other holes in the bottom of the wall case.
The only exception is when an RAD10 drain kit is installed
to connect to an internal drain system. See page 36 for
RAD10 Drain Kit information.

If the wall opening is greater than the case dimensions,
spacers must be used on the sides between the wall case
and the wall support structure to prevent distorting the
wall case.

3. Caulk or gasket the entire opening on the outside

between the wall case and exterior wall surface (4 sides)
to provide total water and air seal.

4. Caulk or gasket room-side opening between wall case and

interior wall surface (4 sides). Opening beneath or
around the wall case can allow outdoor air to leak into the
room resulting in increased operating costs and improper
room temperature control.

Care should be taken in location of electrical supply entry in
relationship to wall sleeve to assure access to receptacle or
junction box once unit is installed.
• Refer to page 42 for maximum power cord length.
• Permanent connected units close to finished floor must

allow for conduit clearance.

Case Angles

In some installations such as curtain walls, window walls, or
where the structural material of the wall is insufficient to
support or fasten wall case to, the use of case angles may be
used. Case angles are pieces of steel or other material of
similar structural strength that are formed to a 90° angle,
with holes to fasten the case angle to the wall case and to
the structural component of the wall surrounding the
wall case.

The following describes the procedure when

field fabricated

and installed

case angles are applied.

1. Position case angles around top and sides of wall case at

the desired location. Position case angles vertically on
each side of wall case to provide a level installation.

2. Mark wall case through holes in case angles. The lowest

hole on the sides of the wall case must be a minimum of
2" above the bottom of the case.

3. For

RAB71

wall case drill 5/32" diameter holes at

locations marked on wall case in Step 2, and assemble
angles to wall case using #10 x 1/2" self tapping screws.
For