Experimental Aircraft Models
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appropriate to center the engine shaft. Snug at least one bolt.
11) Remove the cowl and without moving the engine, one by one remove each motor mount
screw, place a drop of Loctite or medium CA on the threads and replace and tighten. (These
screws
must
have some thread locking compound on them or they will loosen with the
engine vibration.)
12) Apply a coat of sealing epoxy to any exposed wood in the holes (thinned with alcohol so that
it can be brushed.) Then secure the motor mount in place.
13) Install the rest of the fuel lines
a. Thread the fuel line from the engine pump inlet,
alongside the tank and under the mounting
straps. Connect the tube to the tank (O)utlet
b. Cut a piece of silicon tubing 7” (165 mm) to fit on
the (V)ent line. We like to run this out through a
hole 5/64” dia. hole in the fuselage next to the
filler valve. Drill a smaller pilot hole and then
open by hand file to not chip the gel coat. (This
hole is undersize for the fuel tubing so that it
‘wedges’ in place. Cut a diagonal end on the
fuel line to start it in the hole and then pull it through from the outside. Cut off with
about 3/8”+ extending from the fuselage.
c. The remaining tubing (13”) goes between the (F)ill tube of the tank and the DuBro ‘Fill
It Fuel System’ ‘Dot’ previously installed. The extra length is so you can easily pull
the dot out to fill the tank. When the tank it full it will ‘pee’ out the vent tube under the
model.
Nose Gear Installation
During the development of the Velocity model we opted to supply a more expensive (non-scale)
double strut nose gear. There were two reasons for this: 1) A canard aircraft carries more weight
than conventional aircraft on the nose wheel, and 2) we assume you’ll go
through the same learning curve we did relative to learning not to flare too
much on landing. If you over rotate on landing, you’ll stall the canard, and
bounce the nose wheel on the ground.
Items you will need to complete this assembly include items you’d use to
solder copper piping:
Propane torch
Solder
Acid Flux
7/64” Allen key
Our nose gear design uses double wires all the way up into the pivot,
minimizing the tendency to prematurely bend between the top of the coils
and pivot point for steering. . It also cleverly locks in place by inserting at
180 degrees to forward, and rotating in place to lock. In this way no
collars are needed and the bearing surface is much larger than a 3/16”
(5mm) dia. wire would be. During installation the brass barrel is inserted
through the nylon steering arm and firmly held in position by the brass nut.
(Eliminating that pesky problem of steering arms that loosen and rotate on
the nose gear shaft!)
