Elite Greenhouses TITAN 1200, Instructions & Illustrations

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REAR END ASSEMBLY
If you have ordered a built in base, then follow the section at the back of the
booklet in conjunction with the
instructions for each sub assembly.
For the construction of this frame you require from the main box: 1
pack of corner bars marked
“corner bars” and 1 rear end pack marked “rear end”
From the pack of fittings you need: nuts and bolts, glazing beading and gusset plates (1 large –
ridge plate, 2 small – eave plates)
PROCEDURE:
1. Starting with the pack of corner bars split the tape holding them together and first identify the 2
roof bars from the 2 side bars. The side bars have one hole and 1 mitre, both at one end. The other
end has no hole and is square cut. They are also shorter in length (1345mm). The roof bars have a
series of holes in the flange and are mitred at both ends and in addition have a letter ‘R’ written at
the apex on the
outside of the bar and are longer in length (2221mm). N.B. If your greenhouse is a
painted one, the roof corner bars will not be marked with a letter ‘R’. They can be identified from
the side bars as outlined above.
(Key point).
The bars are also handed so you must identify the left and right hand. Standing up, hold one side bar
vertically in your left hand and the other in your right. Rotate the bars so that the 2 bolts slots are
facing in towards you, with the mitres at the top (inside view). Viewed this way the 2 mitres should
run down to each other. The roof bars can be handed similarly, keeping the bolt slots facing inwards
and the letter ‘R’ to the top. (With a painted model, the top can be identified by observing the 4
holes in the flange. The two holes nearest the end are at 50mm and 33mm centres. The 50mm end is
the top i.e. nearest the ridge). On the outside you can identify them by ensuring that the ‘R’s
(indicating ridge) are at the top, the mitres will then run into each other.
2. Slide the glazing beading into the 5 vertical glazing bars and the 4 corner bars, taking care not to
stretch the material. Trim off any surplus level with the end of the bars. N.B. the corner bars have 3
grooves to receive the glazing bead; do not put any in the middle one.
(Key point).
3.Lay out the components of the frame on the ground as though you were standing on the inside i.e
with the bolt slot uppermost. Ensure that, having correctly identified the roof from the side corner
bars, left and right hands (see previous text) you have the roof bars with the letter ‘R’ (indicating
ridge) at the top on the outside, i.e. towards the ground.
(Key point).
4. Slide 4 bolts into each roof corner bar
alternative bolt slot (facing inwards, see picture on next
page). Leave 1 at the top, 1 at the bottom and 2 in the middle. Put a nut on and lightly tighten, leav-
ing them approx. 2” from the end of each bar. These will be used later in the general assembly. For
the side corner bar you need only insert 2 extra bolts into the
alternative bolt slots.
5. Starting at the apex (2 corner bars opposite each other marked ‘R’) slide 1 bolt into the
facing
bolt slot i.e. the one that is facing upwards and is set at 90º to the alternative bolt slots – 4 above.
(Key point).
6. Place the ridge gusset plate (larger of the 2 types) over the bolt, slide the plate left or right until
the slotted hole in the plate lines up with the locating hole in the flange nearest to the end of the cor-
ner bar. Put nuts on both bolts i.e. flange and plate finger tip tighten only.
(Key point). DO NOT
spanner tighten at this stage.