1. Check the battery is in the case. Yep, the bike won’t work if the battery isn’t in the
mounting case.
2. Got the battery? Ace, press gently on the edge with the rocker switch and the charge
indicators to make sure the battery is clicked into place. If you’re not sure, pull it out with a
gentle tug and refit. If it won’t budge, try turning the keylock that we put there to stop the
battery being removed.
3. Got power? Press the battery chargetest on the battery. It’s the row of lights on the back.
They will illuminate. The more green lights, the more charge, one red or nothing and you’ll
need to charge the battery. (see How to love your battery above)
4. Battery on? There’s a rocker swich on the side, near those chargelights. If you want the
bike to use electric power, you’ll need to press it down and a redlight will come on. Of
course you can still ride the bike without the power at all, just leave the switch off.
The motor cut out and it won’t go!
If the motor cuts out follow these procedures
Checking to see if you ran out of charge.
1. Check the battery is turned on using the rocker switch at the back. It will light up red when
it is on.
2. Press the onbattery button to test the charge. The more greenlights, the more charge
your have.
3. If you have no or low charge, turn off the battery and recharge it.
4. If you have green lights turn off the battery for 30 seconds and turn back on. Leave for
another 30 seconds to allow the BMS to attempt to rebalance the battery. If you have one
light left on the battery indicator DO NOT use the throttle or peddle assist to avoid
completely depleting the battery
5. If you have green lights on the battery AND a red light on the battery rocker switch (it’s on
and it has some charge) then remove the battery from the mounting (unlock and unclick)
and reinsert.
Checking the for disconnected pedal sensor or throttle.
The most common problem with ‘it won’t go’ besides having a depleted battery are disconnected
throttle and/or pedal sensors. We designed the E90 so that the kit can be removed. This means
the connections in the wiring loom are designed to be plugged together or pulled apart to allow
owners to refit the kit onto other bikes in the future. This is a key advantage of a kitbike over an
integrated bike you are free to move the powersystem to literally thousands of bikes.
So let’s get into it. First, check the battery is charged and installed in the mounting (see above).
Turn the battery one to check, then turn it off again. Now we can check the cables.
