of the stretcher plate. DO NOT GLUE TO EITHER SIDEFRAME. As before, the bottom of the channel
should be level with the bottom of the sideframe end, you might need to adjust the stretcher-plate
extension a little to achieve this.
29.9)
Finish off detailing the bogie assembly as outlined for the DMCL (rear) non-powered bogie, not
forgetting the central bolster details, which are superglued to the inside of the sideframe mountings.
29.10)
The guard’s door have additional steps fitted to the rear of the bogie in a similar manner to
those at the front. Two extra step mountings are provided for the purpose. Align the steps with the
guard’s door. Fold the step mounting as for the main step, but fold over the top of both mounting legs.
Follow the same construction methods as for the main bogie-mounted steps noted earlier - photo:
Bogie Showing Guard Steps.JPG.
29.11)
Fit the motor to the frame stretcher and glue the pick-ups to the stretcher underside ensuring
the wipers have a good contact with the backs of the wheels. Trim back the pick-up wires as
necessary.
29.12)
Align the worm wheel with centerline of the gear and clip the drive chain in place. DO NOT
MAKE THE CHAIN TOO TIGHT AS THIS WILL CAUSE EXCESSIVE GEAR NOISE AND WEAR IN
THE COMPONENTS AND THUS PREMATURE FAILURE.
29.13)
Lightly lubricate all moving parts and test.
29.14)
There are two different types of axle box covers supplied in the kit, use the slightly domed
Timken covers. Fit covers to all remaining axle boxes - photo: Bogie speedo drive.jpg.
29.15)
Cut 8 (or 12 if fitting guard door bogie steps) 15mm x 5mm x 0.7mm (30 thou) step treads
and fix to the step supports as required.
BODY ASSEMBLY CONTINUED...
NOTE: BEFORE PROCEEDING MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GOT THE CORRECT ROOF AND BODY
PAIRED TOGETHER. DMBS WITHOUT WATER FILLER DETAILS TO THE REAR, DMCL AND THE
ROOF WITH THE WATER FILLER.
30a)
An alternative method of securing the body to underframe is described in
step 53.
Read that
step now before proceeding and decide which method you wish to adopt
30b)
Fit the floor fixing captive nuts into the moulded channel on the underside of the roof. Slightly
reducing of the width of the captive nuts will make their fitment easier, however don’t overdo it as you
don’t want them sliding about when trying to screw the floor in place, nor have them dropping out! A
third captive nut is included as an alternative method of preventing the floor from sagging in the middle
once all the underframe castings are in place, .
31)
Assuming everything has been assembled accurately the roof should fit neatly against the cab
molding at the front with the rear overhanging the end. When the roof is in place the top of the sides
will locate in the groove under the gutter. You may find the central moulded channel on the underside
of the roof needs trimming back to enable to roof to fit between the cab and the rear end moulding.
Fix the roof in place by initially applying solvent from the inside along the joint of the cab/roof moulding
then along the joint between the roof and the side molding, again from the inside. Be very generous
with the solvent here as the ABS can be reluctant to soften.
32)
To make a very secure job, reinforce the sides/roof joint with 30thou (0.7mm) micro rod again
with liberal amounts of solvent. This method can also be applied to the non-cab ends to great effect.
8