3-5 seconds, the engine is within proper operating
temperatures. If the water boils away longer than 5 seconds,
the mixture is set rich which is preferable when breaking in the
engine. Otherwise lean the mixture some and retest after a
minute of running.
Ride Height:
This refers to the clearance between the ground
and the chassis, both at the front and the back of the truck. The
general rule is to have the suspension arms perfectly level
when the car is at rest. To determine the ride height, drop the
truck from around 6"-12" above flat ground. Drop the truck,
making sure it drops flat. Check where the suspension arms
come to rest. You can adjust ride by moving the spring
adjusters on the shock, which are at the top of each shock
spring, until the arms are level after the drop test.
Toe-In/Toe-Out:
This refers to the angle of the front tires when
viewed from above when the suspension arms are level. If the
fronts of the tires angle in, it is called “toe-in” and if the fronts
of the tires angle out, it is called “toe-out.” This is adjusted by
turning the steering rods - the rods that run between the front
hub and the servo saver. These are turnbuckle type, which
means you do not have to remove the rods to make
adjustments in length. Turning the rod in one direction will
lengthen, turning the rod the opposite direction will shorten.
Normally a small amount of toe-in is used to make the truck
track straight at high speed. Too much toe-in will make the
truck difficult to turn as well as reducing the overall top speed
because of tire scrub. Sometimes a small amount of toe-out will
be used to help the steering. As a general rule use a small
amount of toe-in.
Camber:
Camber is the angle of the tops of the tires when
viewed from the front. Negative camber is when the tops of the
tires are angled towards the center of the truck. Positive
camber is where the tops of the tires are angled away from the
center of the truck. Positive camber is very rarely used, if ever.
A small amount of rear negative camber is helpful to increase
traction in the rear. Negative camber at the front will increase
stability. Camber adjustments can be made on the Maximum
ST by turning the “camber rods,” which are the upper links on
the suspension. The camber links are also turnbuckle type.
Lengthening the camber rod will add positive camber and
shortening the camber rod will add negative camber.
Shocks:
Changes in shock oils, springs, and pre-load on the
springs can dramatically change the way the car handles. A
thicker shock oil will make the truck turn faster but reduces
overall traction and handling over bumpy surfaces. Thinner oil
will increase traction at the expense of steering response and
the car will tend to roll more. In general, shock oils between 30
and 50 weight will be best for your truck. You should
experiment some to see what oils work best for your track and
driving style. Shock springs affect the rate that the suspension
rebounds from a bump. We have supplied soft springs that
work under most conditions. Pre-load on the springs means
that the springs are already compressed some so that the
suspension will rebound faster. Sometimes you will want to
pre-load one side when the track has turns all or mostly in one
direction, for instance an oval track. It will also increase the
ride height.
Slipper Clutch:
The slipper clutch is attached to the spur gear
on your truck, the large gear on the outside of the transmission.
This clutch will slip when too much power is sent to the wheels.
It has adjustable tension by turning the nut on the shaft. This is
designed to maximize traction on various surfaces by slipping
before the wheels do. To adjust the slipper clutch, run the truck
on the surface you plan to race. If the rear wheels spin when
full power is applied from a stop, loosen the nut until the wheels
do not spin any more. If the wheels do not spin, tighten the nut
until the wheels spin and then loosen the nut some.
Before Each Run
•
Check for loosened screws on the truck. Engine vibration
will loosen some of the screws, particularly in the engine
mount area. Use thread lock on screws that thread into
metal parts or use a metal nut.
•
Inspect the air cleaner for a torn or damaged element. Also
look for dirt in the air cleaner element and wash it if
necessary.
•
Check the suspension and drive train for binding.
•
Inspect all of the wires for damage. Also check the
connectors to make sure all of them are tight and in the
proper place.
•
Check the fuel tank and fuel lines for leaks.
•
Before starting the engine, turn on the radio and make sure
the servos move easily and in the right direction.
•
Before running always check the condition of your radio
system batteries and replace/recharge if necessary.
After Each Run
•
Drain the fuel tank of any leftover fuel.
DO NOT
return it to
your fuel jug.
•
Put some after-run oil in the carb and turn the flywheel
several times to work the oil into the engine. This will protect
the engine from rusting, especially when stored for a long
period of time.
•
Check again for loosened screws.
•
CLEAN
the truck. Wipe off any oils that have collected on
the chassis, engine end exhaust. Oils will attract dirt on the
next run.
SECTION 14: MAINTENANCE TIPS
SECTION 13: PERFORMANCE TUNING
14
