7
ESC SET UP
Setting 4
❯
6V:
Cuts off/limits acceleration when the pack gets
down to 6 volts.
Use this setting for 2 cell (7.4V)LiPo packs or
you will irreversibly damage your packs!
Setting 5
❯
9V:
Cuts off/limits acceleration when the pack gets
down to 9 volts.
Use this setting for 3 cell (11.1V) LiPo packs or
you will irreversibly damage your packs!
Setting 6
❯
12V:
Cuts off/limits acceleration when the pack gets
down to 12 volts.
Use this setting for 4 cell (14.8V) LiPo packs or
you will irreversibly damage your packs! However, use of a 4S
LiPo pack is not covered under warranty for the 1/10th scale ESC.
8. MOTOR TIMING:
Lowering the timing advance will reduce the
current draw, increase run time, reduce motor/battery temperatures
and may slightly reduce top speed and punch. Increasing the timing
advance will do just the opposite.
Setting 1
❯
Lowest:
A maximum efficiency setting giving long
runtimes and cooler motor temperatures. Very useful with high
kV (low turn) motors to increase motor life and reduce motor/
battery temperatures.
Setting 2
❯
Normal
(Default):
The best mix of speed, punch and
efficiency for all motors.
Setting 3
❯
Highest:
Increases amp draw, reduces runtimes,
increases motor/battery temperatures and may increase top
speed/punch slightly.
ESC TROUBLESHOOTING
If you’re still having difficulties with your DuraTrax ESC after trying the
suggestions offered here, please contact Hobby Services technical
support at the e-mail or phone number on page 3.
Problem:
My ESC may or may not arm, but it will not calibrate
to my transmitter.
1. Make sure you have both your throttle and brake endpoints
(called EPA or ATV on your radio) on the throttle channel between
100% to 120%.
2. Make sure if you have a Futaba or Futaba made transmitter to
have the throttle channel set to the reversed position.
Problem:
My ESC calibrates for the full throttle and full brake
positions but won’t calibrate to the neutral throttle position
(yellow LED keeps flashing).
1. Try moving the throttle trim one way, then the other (usually
towards the throttle side is best).
2. If your transmitter has a 50/50 or 70/30 setting for the throttle,
set it for 50/50 and retry calibration.
3. If you have changed the dead band to a narrower band, you may
want to try going back to the “normal” setting.
Problem:
My vehicle has poor acceleration/punch for the first
few feet or yards, and then it “kicks in”.
1. Make sure you’re using high quality batteries and a battery
connector capable of high amp flow (40-100 amps). This behavior
is very typical of a battery pack that is having difficulty providing
the power your vehicle/system requires for top performance.
2. If using NiCd/NiMH packs, use copper bars to connect cells rather
than welded tabs. Copper bars have a much lower resistance.
Problem:
My battery pack is plugged into the ESC and nothing
is working – no steering or throttle.
1. Make sure the ESC’s receiver plug is plugged into Channel 2 on
the receiver correctly.
2. Double-check your solder connections on the battery plug and
make sure the battery is showing good voltage.
Problem:
Overheated motor or hot power plugs.
1. The motor is geared too high. Change to a lower gear setup.
2. Check for binding in the vehicle’s drive train and that nothing is
interfering with the drive-train.
3. Check the motor for shorts, faulty motor connections and replace
if necessary.
Problem:
Motor runs properly, then goes dead.
1. The built-in thermal protection may be automatically shutting
down power to the ESC due to overheating conditions.
2. Check for binding drive train, bad motor or incorrect gear ratio.
Check gear mesh, replace motor or change gear ratio. Let the
ESC cool down and operation can be reattempted.
Problem:
Motor and Rx do not work.
Make sure the battery is fully charged and that good contact is being
made between the motor battery and ESC and from the ESC to
the receiver. Try powering the receiver directly from a separate Rx
battery…if the receiver now works, the problem may be the ESC
and require servicing.
If the motor runs in reverse after setup, simply swap any two of the
motor wires and try again. There is no polarity on the motor to ESC
wires and does not matter which two wires are changed.
ESC SPECIFICATIONS
Voltage Input:
BEC Max:
Current Rating:
Motor Limit:
2S LiPo, 6-7 cell NiCd or NiMH
3 Amps @ 2S input
Up to 100A
On 2S: 4200kV Max
ESC PRECAUTIONS
➤
Disconnect the battery from the ESC immediately if the ESC or
battery becomes hot!! Allow the ESC or battery to cool down before
reconnecting
➤
NEVER use more than the specified voltage on the ESC’s input.
➤
ALWAYS mount the ESC in a position where air can flow through
the heat sink during operation.
➤
ALWAYS turn on the transmitter before connecting the battery to
the ESC.
➤
ALWAYS disconnect the battery from the ESC when not in use.
➤
Make sure the input battery is fully charged before connecting to
the ESC.
➤
DO NOT attempt to use with brushed motors.
➤
Use heat-shrink tubing to insulate any bare wires between the
motor battery and ESC, and from the ESC to the motor, to prevent
a short circuit.
➤
Allow the ESC to cool before touching.
➤
Do not allow metal/conductive materials to accidentally make
contact across any or all motor/battery posts.
➤
Never power up the ESC before plugging it into the RX and switching
on the transmitter (TX).
➤
Keep out of reach of children.
➤
DuraTrax is not responsible for incidental damage or personal injury
as a result of misuse of this product.
