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Troubleshooting: Alarm
Shock sensor doesn’t trigger the alarm:
1. Was the onboard shock sensor adjusted before it was mounted? If so re-adjust the sensor.
2. Has the onboard shock sensor been turned off? The sensor has the ability to be turned off when adjusting.
3. Has the NPC® system been triggered? If so, you hear 5 chirps when disarming. To check this, turn the ignition key on and off to
clear the NPC® memory, and then retest the shock sensor. For a detailed description of NPC®, see Nuisance Prevention Circuitry
section of the owners guide.
Door input does not immediately trigger full alarm. Instead, chirps are heard for the first 3 seconds:
•
That’s how the progressive two-stage door input works! This is a feature of this system even if the door is instantly closed again, the
progression from chirps to constant siren continues.
Closing the door triggers the system, but opening the door does not:
•
Have you correctly identified the type of door switch system? This happens often when the wrong door input has been used.
System does not passively arm until it is remotely armed and then disarmed:
1. Is passive arming programmed ON?
2. Are the door inputs connected? Is the H1/7 blue wire connected to the door trigger wire in the vehicle? Either the H1/8 green or
the H1/6 violet should be used instead.
Door input does not respond with the progressive trigger, but with immediate full alarm:
•
Does the Status LED indicate that the trigger was caused by the shock sensor? (See
Table of Zones
section of this guide.) The shock
sensor, if set to extreme sensitivity, may be detecting the door unlatching before the door switch sends its signal. Reducing the sensitiv-
ity can solve this problem.
Door locks operate backwards.
•
This unit has easily-reversed lock/unlock outputs. Recheck wire connections to see if you have reversed these.
Troubleshooting: Remote Start
The remote start will not activate the remote start
1. Is the neutral safety switch plugged in and turned on?
2. Is the remote programmed to the system?
3. Can the remote start be activated manually by applying a ground pulse to the H1/10 White/Blue wire?
4. Check the harnesses and their connections. Make sure that the harnesses are completely plugged into the remote start module. Make
sure there are good connections to the vehicle wiring.
5. Check voltage and fuses on the main 12-pin harness and on the heavy gauge remote start harness.
The remote start will activate, but the starter never engages.
1. Check for voltage on the purple starter wire two seconds after the remote start becomes active. If there is voltage present, skip to
Step 5. If there is not voltage present, advance to Step 2.
2. Check the 30A fuses.
3. If the gray/black wait-to-start wire is detecting ground upon activation, the starter will not crank.
4. Is the tach wire connected? If so disconnect it and remote start the vehicle to see if the purple wire sends out voltage. If you get volt-
age you will need to go to an alternate tach source, the tach wire you are currently on has a voltage spike upon ignition power up
which can cause the remote start to not send out the crank voltage.
5. Is the vehicle a Chrysler or GM with a multiplexed starter wire? The vehicle will not crank if the resistance is incorrect on the multi-
plexed accessory/starter wire.
6. Is the vehicle a GM? If so the Brown 2nd accessory needs to be powered up on some of the vehicles for the vehicle to crank.
7. Make sure the purple starter wire is connected on the starter side of the optional starter kill/anti-grind relay.
8. Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? Some immobilizer systems will not allow the vehicle to crank if active.
9. Check connections. The heavy gauge remote start input wires on the heavy gauge 10-pin connector should have a solid connection.
“T-taps” or “scotch locks” are not recommended.
The vehicle starts, but immediately dies.
1. Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? The vehicle’s immobilizer can cut the fuel and/or spark during unauthorized starting attempts.
2. Is the remote start programmed for virtual tach or voltage sense? If so, the crank time may not be set high enough. Voltage sense
will not work on some vehicles.
3. Is the remote start in tach mode? If so has the tach been programmed to the system?
4. Check diagnostics. Sometimes a shutdown will become active during cranking or just after cranking.
The vehicle starts, but the starter keeps running.
1. Is the system programmed for engine checking off or virtual tach voltage sense? When programmed for either of these features, the
engine cranks for the pre programmed crank time regardless of how long it takes for the vehicle to actually start. Adjust to a lower
