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E N G L I S H
Ensure that the material does not creep while cutting; clamp it
securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop
before raising the arm. If small fibres of wood still split out at
the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the
wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and
carefully remove tape when finished.
Body and hand position (fig. Q1 - Q4)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the Mitre Saw
will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer.
• Never place your hands near the cutting area.
• Place your hands no closer than 150 mm from the blade.
• Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting.
Keep your hands in position until the trigger has been released and the
blade has completely stopped.
• Always make dry runs (without power) before finish cuts so that you
can check the path of the blade.
• Do not cross your hands as shown (fig. Q4).
• Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance.
• As you move the saw arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly to
the side of the saw blade.
• Sight through the guard louvres (60) when following a pencil line.
Clamping the workpiece (fig. V1 - V4)
Always use a material clamp when cutting non-ferrous metals.
• Whenever possible, clamp the wood to the saw.
• For best results use the clamp (31) made for use with your saw
(available from your dealer as an option). Clamp the workpiece to the
fence whenever possible. You can clamp to either side of the saw blade;
remember to position your clamp against a solid, flat surface of fence.
Support for long pieces (fig. B3)
• Always support long pieces.
• For best results, use the extension work support (29) to extend the
table width of your saw (available from your dealer as an option).
Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as saw-
horses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.
Cutting picture frames, shadow boxes & other four sided projects
(fig. R1 & R2)
Trim moulding and other frames
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a “feel” for
your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one
shown in fig. R1. The joint shown can be made using either bevel (DW705)
or mitre adjustment.
DW705 - Using bevel adjustment
The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a 90° corner.
The mitre arm is locked in the zero position. The wood is positioned with
the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
Using mitre adjustment
The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad surface
against the fence (fig. R2).
The two sketches (fig. R1 & R2) are for four side objects only. As the
number of sides changes, so do the mitre and bevel angles. The chart
below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes, assuming that all
sides are of equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart,
divide 180° by the number of sides to determine the mitre or bevel angle.
23
en - 6
SET THIS MITER ANGLE ON SAW
SET THIS BEVEL ANGLE ON SAW
ANGLE OF SIDE OF BOX (ANGLE"A")
SQUARE BOX
6 SIDED BOX
No. of sides
Angle mitre or bevel
4
45°
5
36°
6
30°
7
25.7°
8
22.5°
9
20°
10
18°
DW705 - Cutting Compound Mitres (fig. S1 & S2)
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle (fig. R2) and a bevel
angle (fig. R1) at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make
frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in fig. S1.
If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel
clamp knob and the mitre lock knob are securely tightened.
These knobs must be tightened after making any changes in
bevel or mitre.
• The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and
mitre settings for common compound mitre cuts. To use the chart,
select the desired angle “A” (fig. S2) of your project and locate that
angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the
chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across
to find the correct mitre angle.
• Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts.
• Practice fitting the cut pieces together.
Example: To make a 4 sided box with 30 exterior angles
(angle “A”, fig. S2), use the upper right arc. Find 30 on the arc scale.
Follow the horizontal intersecting line to either side to get the mitre angle
setting on the saw (23). Likewise follow the vertical intersecting line to
the top or bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw. Always try
cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify the settings on the saw.
Dual range mitre scale (fig. T1 & T2)
The mitre scale has two ranges of numbers for convenience, as shown in
fig. T1 & T2. One scale indicates 0° when the blade is square to the fence.
At this position the other scale reads 90°. The 0° scale (larger numbers
closer to the front edge) is used when calculating angles. To calculate the
proper mitre angle, divide 180° by the number of sides of the box or
frame. Refer to the previous chart for some examples. The 90° scale
(smaller numbers behind the 0° scale) is used when a corner of your box
or frame is measured with a protractor.
8 SIDED BOX
