SET-UP GLOSSARY:
Caster: Angle of the kingpin in relation to a vertical plane as viewed from the side of the car.
Increasing the angle will make the car more stable out of the turn and down the straights and increase
steering entering a turn. Decreasing the angle will make the car feel more “touchy” at high speeds and
help steering while exiting the turn.
Camber Gain: Angle of the Camber Link relative to the Suspension Arm. Lowering the camber link
on the shock tower OR raising the camber link on the castor block will INCREASE the camber angle of
the tire when the suspension is compressed. Raising the camber link on the shock tower OR lowering
the camber link on the castor block will DECREASE the camber angle of the tire when the suspension is
compressed. There is not a “correct” set-up and once again too much of anything is generally bad. This
will help change the “feel” of the car thru the turns.
Camber Link Length: Comparing this to the length of the Suspension Arm from each pivot point and
keeping the Camber the same, making the link shorter will decrease traction for that corner of the car
while making it longer will increase traction for that corner of the car. Once the camber link is equal to
or greater than the Suspension Arm pivots, the gain of traction ends. Also a shorter camber link will
increase camber gain and a longer decrease camber gain.
Shock Angle: Leaning the shock toward the car is effectively like changing to a softer spring.
Standing the shock closer to vertical is effectively like changing to a stiffer spring. Try when the car is
working well and when one spring change is TOO much for your set-up.
Ride Height: Check by pushing the chassis down once or twice to simulate bumps on the track.
Having the front end higher than the rear will make the car increase rear traction especially out of
the turn. Having the front end lower than the front will make the car increase front traction especially
entering the turn. Generally its safe to start the car with the ride heights even.
Rear Toe-In: Front edge of car tires point toward the chassis as viewed from above the car.
Increasing the angle toward the car will increase rear traction while decreasing front traction.
Decreasing the angle will do the opposite.
When looking for the “perfect set-up” it is important to remember 2 things...
1) Keeping things simple is best.
2) As you are making your set-up change, the track is changing too! Ask a local racer what the track
usually does from begining to end, especially day to night.
- Start your car’s ride height with it equal at all four corners to start. Use the shock collars to adjust
ride height by measuring the distance under the chassis when the car is sitting on a FLAT & LEVEL
surface. With foam tires in the 2.6” range, .600” to the top of the chassis (1/2” under the chassis) is a
good measurement to start with.
- Shock collars can only jack weight and adjust the car’s handling when the car makes ALL 4 shocks
squat when the car is set down. Use the RF shock collar to adjust how the car ENTERS the corner. Use
the RR shock collar to adjust how the car exits the corner ON-POWER. Use the LF shock collar to make
the car turn in less, and off the corner more.
- It is best to have a little bit of brake drag when you let off the gas, this will allow for a more
controlable car in ALL conditions. Increasing how much the brake drags will make your car turn into the
corner harder but can make the car also much more loose to drive into the corner. With most speed
controls today a drag brake strength of 10-20% is a good range to work with.
Final Drive Chart:
The chart provided below gives you the final drive of the motor to spin the axle
1 revolution. This chart is NOT just the pinion and spur, but has the transmission ratio included as
well.
Rear Toe Stagger: Difference in the amount of Rear Toe-In among the rear tires. Typically used
only on high bite tracks with MORE toe-in on the Left Rear tire than the Right so the rear of the car
helps turn the car LEFT under acceleration.
Wheelbase (Front End): Wheelbase is the distance between the front and rear axles. Running
the entire front end assembly in the forward position makes the wheelbase longer and therefore
more stable on long/fast tracks with flowing turns. Running the entire front end assembly in the rear
position make the wheelbase shorter and therefore more suitable for short-tracks where you are
constantly turning.
Wheelbase (Rear End): This adjustment uses the plastic spacers on the kingpin the rear bearing
carrier rides on. With the spacers in front of the carrier it will lengthen the wheelbase but will
increase steering. If the spacers are behind the carrier it will shorten the wheelbase but increase
rear traction. This is completely backwards from how it works for the Front End only because in
the rear of the car you have the weight of the motor and the torque it creates. Shortening the
wheelbase here makes more of the car hang over the rear tires and promotes more weight transfer.
- To determine the final drive in your car:
1) Divide the Spur Gear by the Pinion Gear, which
equals a “Ratio”.
2) Multiply the “Ratio” by the “Transmission Ratio”
which will equal your “Final Drive”.
***Transmission Ratio = 2.4 for this car.***
- Gearing choice can vary greatly depending
on track size, surface type, amount of traction,
you motor and driving style. For starters consult
your local hobby dealer or fellow racer at your
local track for the ideal gear choice for your
application.
Summary of Contents for ENFORCER G6
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