Tweak:
Refers to the amount of weight placed on the Left Rear and Right Front tires by
adjusting the collars on the side shocks. Threading the collars IN on the right side shock
and OUT on the left side shock will place more weight on the Left Rear tire and on the
Right Front tire and will make the car push. Threading the collars OUT on the right side
shock and IN on the left side shock will place more weight on the Right Rear tire and
Left Front tire and will make the car loose. Generally the car is always set-up so that it is
“tweaked” so that the Left Rear is heavier than the Right Rear. You can check to see
how much weight is on each rear tire by using a hobby knife to pick up the rear of the
car under the center of the rear pod. The Right Rear should come off the ground about
1/8" inch before the Left Rear does. The higher the Right Rear comes off the ground
before the Left Rear does, the more tweak and more weight that is on the Left Rear.
Ride Height:
Check by pushing the chassis down once or twice to simulate bumps on
the track. Having the front end
higher
than the front will make the car increase rear
traction especially out of the turn. Having the front end
lower
than the rear end will make
the car increase front traction especially entering the turn. Generally a safe place to start
is with all corners of the car even with 1/4" ride height under the chassis. Since these
cars sit so close to the ground even 1/16" difference is drastic.
Battery Placement:
Since the battery is the single heaviest component in the car its
placement is critical. Moving the battery further to the left will make the car turn more
thru the center of the turn and coming off but will decrease forward bite. Placing the
battery closer to the center of the car will work better on low bite tracks and increase
forward bite.
Wheelbase:
Wheelbase is the distance between the front and rear axles. Mounting the
entire front end assembly in the forward position (10 3/8") will make the car more stable
on long fast tracks with flowing turns or tracks with low bite compared to the power used.
Running the entire front assembly in the rear most position (9 5/8") will make the car
more suitable for short tracks where you are constantly turning. Using the middle
position (10") is a happy-medium of both set-ups described.
Long Pod:
Unique to this car is the option to increase the length of the rear pod and
keep the wheelbase and body mount positions the same. Increasing the pod length
(distance from axle to t-bar) makes the center shock and t-plate effectively a lot softer
and best for severely bumpy conditions and flat tracks.
Front Track Width:
This can be viewed as the distance between the two front tires but
more accurately it is the distance from the center of the car to the individual tire. For
example moving the Right Front tire closer to the center of the car will increase the
amount of weight transferred to the tire when cornering, best used when the car is
extremely tight. Moving the Right Front away from the center of the car will decrease the
amount of weight transferred to the tire when cornering, best used when the car is
extremely loose or over aggressive to drive. Since the majority of the cars cornering
ability is done thru the Right Front tire, moving the location of the Left Front tire will not
be near as drastic but will help fine tune your set-up.
Summary of Contents for Aggressor
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