17
Stitch Samples and Needle Chart
Stitch Samples
Set stitch length regulator to
1
desired stitch length.
Make sure approximately 15
2
cm (6 inches) of upper thread
is pulled under the presser
foot and toward the rear of the
machine. While needle is in
raised position, insert a test strip
from the garment fabric under
the foot.
Lower presser foot.
3
Turn the handwheel toward you
4
to lower the needle through the
fabric, then press gently on the
foot controller to begin.
Turn the handwheel toward you
5
to raise the needle and thread
take-up lever to their highest
positions.
Raise the presser foot, remove
6
fabric and then manually cut the
thread with the cutter on the left
side of the head of the machine
or with a pair of scissors.
When using thread cutter:
✽
5
Press the thread cutter button
while the presser foot lever is in
the down position.
6
Raise presser foot and remove
fabric.
Thread Tension
Bobbin thread should feed smoothly. Adjust bobbin thread
✽
to match that of upper thread. (If bobbin thread is too tight
it may cause fabric to bunch up.)
to increase
bobbin
tension
to reduce
needle
thread
tension
to increase
needle
thread
tension
Fabric
Upper
Thread
Lower
Thread
to reduce
bobbin
tension
Correct thread tension
Incorrect thread tension can lead
to such undesirable results as
messy stitches, puckered seams
and thread breakage.
Upper
Thread
Lower
Thread
Right side of Fabric
Upper
Thread
Lower
Thread
Right side of Fabric
Wrong side of fabric
Bobbin tension . . .
Proper
When it is week
Bobbin tension . . .
Proper
When it is strong
Wrong side of fabric
Adjust the upper thread to match the bobbin thread.
Selecting the proper needle for use with the fabric and thread you are working with
●
The following chart applies to many different fabric, thread and needle combinations.
✽
HLX5 needles are recommended; however, Schmetz 130/705H needles may also be used under normal
✽
sewing conditions.
Adjust the pressure adjustment dial and the feed dog adjustment knob according to the chart on the sewing
✽
machine.
When sewing on knit fabrics such as jersey or tricot, use a ballpoint needle or a needle designed for use with
✽
knit fabrics.
For best results when using metallic threads, sew with a good quality thread, set upper tension on 2, and
✽
use metallic needle.
Fabric - Thread - Needles
Cloth
Thread
Needle (HLX5)
Specialty
fabrics
Velvet
Silk, Polyester #30 – #50
#11 – #14
Quilt
Polyester #20 – #50
#11 – #16
Synthetic Suede
Polyester #20 – #50
Knit
Polyester #20 – #50
Coating
Polyester #50
#11 – #14
Light
weight
fabrics
Lawn
Cotton #80
#9
Tricot
Polyester #60
Silk Georgette
Silk #50
Wool Georgette
Silk, Polyester #50
#11
Medium
weight
fabrics
Gingham
Cotton #60 – #80
#11 – #14
Lightweight Jersey
Polyester #60
#11
Gabardine, Flannel
Silk #50
Heavy
weight
fabrics
Denim
Cotton #20 – #50
#14 – #18
Jersey
Polyester #20 – #50
#11 – #16
Tweed
Silk #20 – #50
HLX5 Schmetz
130/705H
#9
#65
#11
#75
#14
#90
#16
#100
#18
#110
