Your new BOS damper is designed to change your old one or the standard dampers of your bike. Note the
different point to check when mounting :
- Remove the standard dampers
See your bike’s work shop manual to follow your specific bike damper remote procedure.
- Mounting of the BOS dampers
Depending of the type of bike, your BOS damper is designed with eyelet bearing / bearing or eyelet bearing
/ screed mounting eyelet. In every case, the mounting procedure is the contrary of the remove procedure.
If some modification are required, your contact in BOS or your local authorized distributor will inform you
in advance and guide you.
3.1. COIL SPRING
Spring preload isn’t considered as an adjustment. It’s a base setting wich is dictated by your weight. It aims
to adjust the SAG (negative travel) on the shock, wich is the amount the shock compresses when you sit on
the saddle. It’smeasured as mm of bike compression, but can vary from one bike to another depending on
the geometry. BOS’s recommended sag for most bikes is 100mm.
NB : Don’t forget the SAG is measured on the flat, whereas when you are riding the bike it can be an angle
wich modifie the ‘dynamic’ SAG.
The damper can be supplied with a spring to match your weight.
The ideal preload giving 90/110mm SAG, can permit the bike compressed 40 to 50mm when pilot is not on
the saddle.
If you exceed this range, a harder spring is strongly recommended.
If you don’t match this range, a softer spring is recommended.
A Spring wich is to hard or with too much preload can negatively affect the shock’s hydraulic damping and
reduce your bike’s performance.
3.2. HYDRAULIC ADJUSTMENTS
The damper is a 3 ways, wich means there are three types of principal damping adjustments which affect
hydraulic curve : rebound, low speed compression and hight speed compression.Your shock basic setting
(internal hydraulic) is designed for your bike’s geometry and weight.
The purpose of damping adjustments is to use all the shock’s travel without bottoming-out (or only rarely),
to give grip to the rear wheel, but also to stop the bike stalling in holes, and finally to maintain a good
position. Below are the basic settings for your frame. Then it’s up to you to analyse its performance and
adjust the settings to suit your riding style. Do this carefully and methodically, step by step. Only change
one setting at a time and only by a few clicks. If it’s OK, note the setting and type of terrain. If you get
confused with the settings, return to the basic
settings and start again.
2 ASSEMBLY
3 SETTINGS
