Fokker
EIII
Page
11
Copyright©
2007
M.K.
Bengtson
All
Rights
Reserved
Rev
07/11
piece
to
length
and
held
it
in
place
with
some
fine
copper
wire
to
keep
it
from
moving.
I
then
bent
up
the
two
L4
pieces,
positioned
them
and
tweaked
them
as
required
and
held
everything
in
place
with
some
clothespins
to
get
all
the
angles
and
dangles
correct.
When
satisfied,
the
L4
and
L3
are
removed
and
the
L2
is
removed
from
the
tube.
Some
30
‐
minute
epoxy
is
mixed
up
and
squirted
into
the
tube
and
the
L2
reinstalled.
Once
the
L2
is
installed
and
positioned,
the
L3
and
two
L4
pieces
are
positioned
and
held
in
place
with
fine
copper
wire.
When
everything
is
correctly
positioned,
the
whole
shebang
is
then
silver
soldered
together
using
a
small
propane
torch
and
silver
solder.
When
done,
all
the
excess
wire
is
clipped
and
the
gear
is
left
so
the
rear
L2
can
cure.
When
the
epoxy
has
cured,
the
solder
joints
are
filed
and
cleaned
up
as
needed.
RUDDER
I
decided
to
build
up
the
rudder.
It
consists
of
a
number
of
3/16
ʺ
thick
laser
cut
balsa
parts
that
you
assemble
over
the
plans
with
a
drop
or
two
of
thin
CA.
The
rudder
is
connected
to
the
stab
pivot
by
a
piece
of
brass
tubing
that
is
attached
to
the
stab
pivot.
There
are
two
pieces
of
tubing
on
the
rudder
that
serve
as
guide
tubes
for
the
rudder
pivot
tube.
The
plan
calls
for
these
to
be
5/32
ʺ
OD
with
a
1/8
ʺ
od
brass
tube
riding
inside
of
them.
I
used
pieces
of
3/16
ʺ
tube
(and
a
5/32
ʺ
pivot
tube),
as
the
3/16
ʺ
od
tubes
are
the
same
diameter
as
the
rudder
is
thick.
The
plan
calls
for
aluminum
tubing
here.
I
used
a
small
piece
of
brass
and
a
larger
piece
of
aluminum
tubing
as
I
had
these
around.
The
two
pieces
are
separated
by
about
3/8
ʺ
,
this
is
where
the
pivot
tube
that
is
attached
to
the
stab
tube
rides.
The
smaller
diameter
tubes
rides
through
the
two
pieces
on
the
rudder
and
captures
the
tube
on
the
stab
pivot
to
provide
a
bearing
surface.
This
is
a
bit
difficult
to
describe
but
is
apparent
if
you
study
the
plans
