4.2
Recommended threads
Needle system:
B27
Recommended
needle size:
Nm 80 for very thin material
Nm 90 for thin material
Nm 100 for medium-weight material
Nm 110 for heavy-weight material
High sewing security and good sewability are achieved with the
following core threads:
–
Two-ply polyester endless polyester core-spun
(e.g. Epic Poly-Poly, Rasant x, Saba C, ...)
–
Two-ply polyester endless cotton core-spun
(e.g. Frikka, Koban, Rasant, ...)
If these threads are not available, the polyester fibre or cotton threads
listed in the table can also be sewn.
Often two-ply core threads are offered by the thread manufacturers
with the same designation as three-ply polyester fibre threads
(3cyl.-spun).This causes uncertainty with regard to twisting and thread
thickness.
When in doubt, unravel the thread and check whether it is twisted 2- or
3-ply.
The label no. 120 on the thread reel of a core thread corresponds e.g.
to the thread size Nm 80/2 (see table values in brackets).
In case of monofilament threads you can use needle threads and hook
threads of the same thickness. The best results are achieved with soft
and elastic threads (software) of the thread thickness 130 Denier.
Recommended thread thicknesses:
Needle size
Core thread
Core thread
Nm
Needle thread
Hook thread
Needle thread
Hook thread
Polyester
Polyester
Polyester
Cotton
endless
core-spun
endless
core-spun
Label No.
Label No.
Label No.
Label No.
80
90
120 (Nm 80/2)
120 (Nm 80/2)
120 (Nm 80/2)
120 (Nm 80/2)
100 - 110
100 (Nm 65/2)
100 (Nm 65/2)
100 (Nm 65/2)
100 (Nm 65/2)
Needle size
Polyester fibre thread
Cotton thread
Nm
(3cyl.-spun)
Needle thread
Hook thread
Needle thread
Hook thread
80
Nm 120/3
Nm 120/3
Ne
B
60/3-80/3
Ne
B
60/3-80/3
90
Nm 80/3-120/3
Nm 80/3-120/3
Ne
B
50/3-70/3
Ne
B
50/3-70/3
100 - 110
Nm 70/3-100/3
Nm 70/3-100/3
Ne
B
40/3-60/3
Ne
B
40/3-60/3
8
