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4. Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? Some immobilizer systems
will not allow the vehicle to crank if active.
5. Check connections. The two red heavy gauge input wires on the
relay satellite should have solid connections. “T-taps”, or “scotch
locks” are not recommended for any high current heavy gauge
wiring. Also, if the vehicle has more than one 12-volt input wire,
then connect one red wire to each.
•
The vehicle starts, but immediately dies.
1. Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? The vehicle’s immobilizer
will cut the fuel and/or spark during unauthorized starting at-
tempts.
2. Is the remote start programmed for voltage sense? If so, the start
time may not be set high enough, or you may have to adjust the
voltage threshold in programming. Voltage sense will not work on
some vehicles.
3. Check diagnostics. Sometimes a shutdown will become active
during cranking or just after cranking.
•
The vehicle starts, but the starter keeps running.
1. Is the system programmed for engine checking off or voltage
sense? When programmed for either of these features, the engine
cranks for the preprogrammed crank time regardless of how long
it takes to start the vehicle to actually start. Adjust to a lower crank-
ing time.
2. Was the Tach Learn successful? The LED must light solidly and
brightly to indicate a successful learn.
3. Make sure that there is a tach signal right at the purple/white tach
input wire of the remote start. If not, recheck the connection to the
vehicle’s tach wire and make sure the wire is not broken or shorted
to ground leading to the remote start.
