Amewi 26079, Instruction Manual

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BEDIENUNGSANLEITUNG / INSTRUCTION MANUAL DRAGONFLIGHT 95
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13. Schneiden Sie ein 1000mm langes Stück Dyneema Schnur ab, um den Dirk zu bilden. Binden Sie
zunächst ein Ende an den Metallring im Vorstag (siehe Foto 11). Binden Sie dann das untere Ende der
Schnur an den Ring, der am Einsteller am hinteren Ende des Auslegers angebracht ist. Stellen Sie den
Einsteller so ein, dass der Achterliek (Hinterkante) etwas locker bleibt.
14. Stellen Sie die Position der Silikonringe SR2 / 3 und des Ausleger-Schothorn-Hakens so ein, dass der
Auslegerfuß eine Kurve mit ungefähr 25mm zwischen der Mitte des Auslegerrohrs und dem Segelfuß in
der Mitte bilden kann.
In diesem Stadium, in dem Sie das Rigging abgeschlossen haben, werden in den nächsten Abschnitten
die Montage
von „Sheets“ (Steuerleitungen) an den Auslegern und die Einrichtung des Rig
gs für beste
Leistung und Bootsausstattung behandelt.
4. Cut a 200mm length of Dyneema and tie one end to the front hole in the Backstay Crane. Tie one of the
6mm Metal Rings to the other end at a distance of 15mm from Backstay Crane hole.
5. Remove the Counterweight from the front end of the Jib Boom, make sure it is screwed on tightly to its
metal shaft and secure the thread with a drop of thin CA glue.
6. Push the Counterweight shaft through the loop in the bottom of the wire Forestay and back into the
Front-End Fitting leaving approximately 5mm of shaft showing.
7. (Not shown - see photo 9 on page 6) Hook the eye in the Jib Clew (bottom rear corner) onto the Jib
Clew Hook.
8. (Not shown - see photo 10 on page 6) Using a pair of thin nosed pliers close up slightly the open end of
the hook to prevent the eye slipping off the hook when sailing. Note: This can be opened out again with
a flat bladed screwdriver if you need to remove the sail.
9. Cut a 250mm length of Dyneema to form the Jib Cunningham (downhaul at the lower front corner of the
sail). Start by tying one end to the lower front hole in the Boom Joiner (a), take it forwards through the
first two holes in a Bowsie (b), then forward through the front eye in the Front End Fitting (c), up through
the sail eyelet (d) and back down through the eye (c) again and back through the final hole in the
Bowsie (e). Set the Bowsie in a central position and adjust the cord to form a gap of 5mm between the
bottom edge of the sail and the top edge of the Front-End Fitting and tie off the final knot to secure the
Bowsie.
10. Slacken off the Bowsie adjuster on the Jib Hook-Down, thread the loop through the front Deck Eye
(Deck Eye 1), lead it back through Deck Eye 2 and hook the loop over the Jib Deck Hook. Tighten the
hook down Bowsie to get the Jib Boom as low to the deck as possible.
11. Cut a 200mm length of Dyneema to form the top of the Forestay. Tie one end to the wire loop in the top
of the Forestay wire, thread up through the first two holes of a Bowsie, through the metal ring and back
through the final eye of the Bowsie. Pull some tension into the Forestay and tie off the final knot in the
Bowsie with the Bowsie positioned about 10mm from the metal ring. When secured, pull down to apply
more tension into the Forestay until the Luff of the Jib starts to wrinkle. Cut a 150mm length of
Dyneema and tie the top eyelet in the jib to the wire loop in the Forestay with enough tension to remove
the wrinkles in the sail’s Luff.
Note: Before tying the sail, head ensure the gap is still 5mm between the Jib Foot and the top of the
Front-End Fitting. After this is complete, the Bowsie on the Jib Cunningham can then be used to fine
tune the tension in the Jib Luff.
12. Now set the mast rake (angle) by adjusting the Forestay Bowsie to obtain the dimensions shown in the
rig diagram on the next page. To achieve these measurements you will have put a lot of tension into the