2
requires an optional Surface Wiring Kit, Model SWK715, for
routing of wires from the Lock Assembly to the Control Box.
Note:
If mounting onto a hollow door, wiring may be routed
inside the door. A
3
/
8
x36” straight drill will be required to drill
through the door frame from the top and hinged-side edges
and through internal reinforcements to allow snaking of wires.
In this case, drill wire exit and entry holes and snake wires
before mounting the Lock Assembly.
Sufficient cable (10 feet) is supplied to permit mounting of the
Control Box on the hinged side of the door, on the wall
adjacent to the door frame. If mounting further away (above a
dropped ceiling, for example), a longer cable will be required.
Lock Assembly & Keeper Assembly (See Note, Page 1)
The printed mounting template supplied is for a left-handed
reverse door. (For installation onto a right-handed reverse
door, turn template upside down.) Fold the template up 90°
on the dashed line as indicated. With the door closed, tape
the template to the inside surface of the door and jamb so
that the hole for the rim cylinder is about 38” above the floor,
and proceed as follows. (Note special instructions for
mounting Model 715 onto a narrow-stile glass door.)
Precautions:
•
Do not connect the 9-volt battery or ac power until the
installation is complete.
•
The round ferrite magnet and the glass-encapsulated
reed switch on the Lock Assembly circuit board are
fragile. Exercise care while the Lock Cover is removed.
•
Avoid getting grease on Solenoid Plunger or the inner
surface of the Solenoid Backplate.
•
When making electrical connections to the Lock
Assembly, be sure that the wires do not interfere with the
operation of the Solenoid Backplate.
If the sounder cable is removed from the Lock Assembly
circuit board, observe polarity shown on the label when
installing.
1. Mark and drill the following holes:
a. six mounting holes, four* for the Lock Assembly and
two (of the three shown) for the Keeper Assembly;
*Note:
For mounting Model 715 onto a narrow-stile
glass door, drill only two holes for the Lock Assembly,
along the jamb edge.
b. one
3
/
8
” cable entry hole* (aligns with hole in baseplate,
near terminal strip);
Note:
Not for glass doors.
c. (only if an exterior cylinder is used), one 1¼” diameter
hole.
2. Remove the Lock Cover.
With the door ajar, operate the
Cam Latch to its latched position. Remove the four #6
screws that secure the cover to the base, two on each
side. Pull the cover up about an inch, then fold it over
toward the Cam Latch to remove. (Reverse the foregoing
procedure to replace the Lock Cover.) Note: Exercise
caution whenever the Lock Cover is removed.
3. Install the interior rim cylinder.
Detach two Springs and
the four screws holding the Rim Cylinder Housing to the
Bolt Cover. Cut the rim cylinder tailpiece so that it extends
3
/
8
” beyond the Rim Cylinder Housing. Facing the front of
the lock, install the rim cylinder with the keyway horizontal.
Secure the cylinder to the Rim Cylinder Housing using the
screws supplied with the cylinder. Guiding the cylinder's
tailpiece into the interior crosshole, replace the Rim
Cylinder Housing onto the Bolt Cover using the four
screws. Reattach the two Springs.
4. Test the deadbolt.
Check for proper operation using the
key. The key should be removable from the lock in either
the fully locked or the fully unlocked position. If it is not, the
cylinder and the crosshole are misaligned. Remove the
Rim Cylinder Housing, rotate the crosshole turn
clockwise, then reinstall the Rim Cylinder Housing. (
Note:
The deadbolt can be projected into the Keeper Assembly
by turning the key counterclockwise one full turn.)
5. (For exterior cylinder only.)
Install the Rim Cylinder from
the outside with the keyway horizontal. Mount with the
supplied screws. Cut the tailpiece so that it extends
3
/
8
”
beyond the inside surface of the door. Guide the tailpiece
into the exterior crosshole. Test the deadbolt as described
in Step 4 above.
6. Mount the lock*.
Install the lock onto the door using four
#10 screws (supplied). For maximum holding strength, the
Lock Assembly should be through-bolted using at least
#10 carriage bolts. If installing Model 715, do not tighten at
this time.
*Note:
If installing Model 715 onto a narrow-stile glass
door, attach the Channel and Push Bar (see Step 7b)
before mounting onto the door and secure the Channel to
the Channel Retainer Bracket using two #10-24 screws
from the rear.
7a.
(For Model 265 only.)
The Paddle Arm is factory
mounted for use on a left-handed reverse door. If the lock
is installed on a right-handed reverse door, remove the
two screws that secure the paddle to the arm and remount
the paddle upside down.
b. (For Model 715 only.)
Insert the Push Bar and
Channel Assembly under the Channel Retainer Bracket,
which is mounted on the Lock Baseplate. Hold the Push
Bar and Channel Assembly horizontally against the door
using a level. Slide the End Cap Retaining Bracket into
the end of the Channel. After checking that the bar is
level, use the Channel as a template to mark and drill two
#22 or
5
/
32
” mounting holes into the door. If the Channel is
too long, cut the Channel and the Channel Insert to the
proper length, keeping them as long as possible, and
deburr the edges.
Note:
If installing onto a left-hand door
and using a Surface Wiring Kit, cut the Channel and
Channel Insert just enough to clear the vertical wire
channel. See Fig. 1.
Mount the End Cap Retaining Bracket to the door with two
#10 screws provided, then tighten the lock securely to the
door. Remove the #10-32x½” Phillips screw and lock
