12. Tip Adjustment
•
The tips should be adjusted so that the slot in the
tip position indexer (D128410)
shows
the tips in the zero position (or the position that was previously checked before dismantling
the wing if particular settings need to be reproduced). This is done by slackening the wing tip
bolts,
screw FHC 6-70 (B167210
), then twisting the tips and then re-tightening the bolts so
that the tip position indexer locks the tips in the correct position.
•
Each tip should now be tensioned 10 full turns of the tensioning screw,
screw HM 6-45
(B126410)
(or the value that was previously checked before dismantling the wing if
particular settings need to be reproduced).
•
This should be counted from the start of the slot, or when the slackness in the adjuster screw
is first felt to be taken up.
•
Each turn is equivalent to 1mm of sail tension.
•
Pop the plastic
covering caps
(P201610)
over the tips.
13. Batten Strings
•
Each batten string should be one continuous loop passing down through one sail eyelet then
up through the other to meet in a simple overhand/half-hitch knot.
•
Firmly push the battens in by hand.
•
Position the string with the lower portion across the batten end and determine the approximate
position of the knot.
•
Remove the string from the batten end, and tie the knot a few millimeters further up the
string.
•
Try the tension. It should be quite tight, resistant to squeezing the strings inwards from the
sides, but not so tight that you can’t get the strings on reasonably easily.
•
The strings should not be so tight that they make the sail wrinkle between the eyelets.
•
A bit of practice is needed, but there are plenty of battens to do!
•
Once you have got the tensions correct, tie a second knot a couple of inches further down the
string to form a convenient handle, and cut the remainder off.
•
Note that the string on the last curved batten at the tip should be rather tighter than the rest, to
the point of being a distinct challenge to get on and off.
•
The tip-rod has two strings, one from the upper surface and one from the lower surface. The
tension in each should be similar.
•
Tension the lower surface string first, tight enough to smooth out any wrinkles in the lower
surface close to the tip.
•
Roughly tension the upper surface string, aiming to do the same to the upper surface.
•
Now the tricky part: the correct tip-rod string tensions should produce a constant gap between
the lower and upper surfaces, along the part where the lower and upper surfaces Velcro
together.
•
When this is so, the string tensions should be equal, the tip-rod should be sticking slightly
upwards, and the upper and lower surfaces should be smooth and free of wrinkles. There is a
pen line under the upper surface and when the two surfaces are brought together the under
surface should butt up to this line. It may take a few tries to achieve this!
14. Reflex Bridle
•
Attach the reflex bridles to the webbings running up through the eyelets with stainless steel
shackles
(I120310)
.
•
Do not threadlock the shackles.
•
Check the positions of the reflex lines on the pulley arrange them so that they do not wrap
around or run over each other.
15. Nose of Sail
•
Check the symmetry of the sail leading edges at the nose plates, move the sail into the middle.
•
Check the tension of the upper part of the sail leading edge at the nose plate, pull downwards
on the strings if necessary to achieve a smooth profile.
GDMMIX13-1G Version
0010
28
Summary of Contents for IXess 13
Page 42: ......
