100299634_2000545244_ Rev. A
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3. MAKING THE JOINT
A.
Cutting
Pipe must be squarely cut to allow for the proper
interfacing of the pipe end and the fitting socket
bottom. This can be accomplished with a miter box
saw or wheel type cutter. Wheel type cutters are
not generally recommended for larger diameters
since they tend to flare the corner of the pipe end.
If this type of cutter is used, the flare on the end
must be completely removed.
Note:
Power saws, if used, should be specifically
designed to cut plastic pipe.
Figure 38.
B.
Deburring
Use a knife, plastic pipe deburring tool, or file to
remove burrs from the end of small diameter pipe.
Be sure to remove all burrs from around the inside
as well as the outside of the pipe. A slight chamfer
(bevel) of about 10°-15° should be added to the
end to permit easier insertion of the pipe into the
end of the fitting. Failure to chamfer the edge of the
pipe may remove cement from the fitting socket,
causing the joint to leak.
Figure 39.
C.
Test dry fit of the joint
Tapered fitting sockets are designed so that
an interfaced fit should occur when the pipe is
inserted about 1/3 to 2/3 of the way into the socket.
Occasionally, when pipe fitting dimensions are at
the tolerance extremes, it will be possible to fully
insert dry pipe to the bottom of the fitting socket.
When this happens, a sufficient quantity of cement
must be applied to the joint to fill the gap between
the pipe and fitting. The gap must be filled to obtain
a strong, leak-free joint.
D.
Inspection, cleaning, priming
Visually inspect the inside of the pipe and fitting
sockets and remove all dirt, grease or moisture
with a clean dry rag. If wiping fails to clean the
surfaces, a chemical cleaner must be used. Check
for possible damage such as splits or cracks and
replace if necessary.
Depth-of-entry
Marking the depth of entry is a way to check if the
pipe has reached the bottom of the fitting socket
in Step F. Measure the fitting depth and mark this
distance on the pipe O.D. You may want to add
several inches to the distance and make a second
mark as the primer and cement will most likely
destroy your first one.
Apply primer to the surface of the pipe and fitting
socket with a natural bristle brush. This process
softens and prepares the PVC or CPVC for the
solvent cementing step. Move quickly and without
hesitation to the cementing procedure while the
surfaces are still wet with primer.
E.
Application of solvent cement
•
Apply solvent cement evenly and quickly
around outside of pipe at a width a little
greater than the depth of the fitting socket.
•
Apply a light coat of cement evenly around
the inside of the fitting socket. Avoid puddling.
•
Apply a second coat of cement to the pipe
end.
•
Cans of cement and primer should
be closed at all times when not in
use to prevent evaporation of
chemicals and hardening of cement.
•
They are also very flammable and
should be kept away from heat or
flame.
Fire Hazard
WARNING
