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• For club racing, it is recommended to check the shocks for air inside before each race
and only re-fill and bleed them if necessary. Before each race day, make sure you take
the spring off of each shock, hold it up to your ear, and quickly compress the shock rod
fully into the body while listening for any air making a “whistling” or “squishy” sound as
it passes through the piston holes. If you hear any air, refill and bleed your shocks. For
high-competition racing, it is recommended that the shocks be re-filled and bled before a
large event.
• If building or pairing new shocks, always make sure they are the same length using a
shock length measuring tool and adjust the lower ball joints as needed.
• If installing new rubber bladders, carefully trim the thin excess rubber from the edges of
their lips. Curved body scissors work the best.
• Regularly inspect the amount of dirt on the felt protector in the shocks (if present) and
regularly replace with a new one.
• During regular shock operation, oil naturally gets on the shock shaft and drop-by-drop
slightly gets out of the shock body. Shocks should be inspected regularly after each race,
and oil replaced as required.
1. Remove the seals on both sides of the bearing (if present). If the seals bend a little and
you can see a kink, carefully flatten the kink out by hand.
2. Spray the seals with motor cleaner and blow dry with compressed air.
3. Spray the bearing on both sides with motor cleaner.
4. Spin the bearing while it is still wet to dislodge any particles with the cleaner.
5. Spray the bearing on both sides again.
6. Blow both sides of the bearing dry with compressed air to make sure particles come out.
7. Hold the inner part of the bearing with my left thumb/forefinger and spin it to make sure
it spins free without any abnormal vibrations or sounds.
8. Place one drop of bearing oil into each side of the bearing.
9. Replace both seals at the same time by lining them up on each side of the bearing and
lightly pressing them in all the way around the bearings circumference with your thumb
and forefinger. Do not press too hard or use any type of tool, such as a wrench tip, to push
the blue seals in as they will push in too far, bend and cause drag.
If you spin test the bearing after you have re-oiled and sealed it, it will not spin freely for an extended period of time. The lightest of oils may allow it to spin for 1-2 seconds. This is normal
and once you have mounted the bearings in the car again, the drive train will spin freely.
Make sure you use a motor cleaner that does not leave a residue after it dries as this may cause drag and wear in the bearings.
SHOCK MAINTENANCE
The most important maintenance task for keeping consistent shock performance is refilling and bleeding them correctly. If built correctly, it will not be necessary
to re-build them often. Replacing warped/hard rubber bladders and o-rings, scarred piston rods, or shaved/split/loose composite upper and lower ball joints are also important.
BEARING MAINTENANCE
Ball-bearings in an off-road car or truggy must be properly maintained for smooth operation and long lifespan.
Typically, the ball-bearings included in new cars are greased for highest lifespan and as such the drivetrain may not seem to be as free as with lightly-oiled ball-bearings. However, when the
car is run the ball-bearings will become more free and the drivetrain will become very efficient.
There are several types of bearings discussed here: bearings which already come greased from the factory, bearings which must be lubricated using the HUDY Bearing Grease, and then
there are also bearings in the steering system which need to be lubricated with HUDY Bearing Oil.
The following procedures are recommended to clean all of the bearings in your off-road car or truggy. For high-competition racing, we recommended doing this every 3-4 weeks, or before a
major race.
RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS
• Use HUDY Bearing Grease to regularly lubricate grease-bearing ball-bearings.
• Use HUDY Bearing Oil to lubricate the bearings of the steering system.
SUSPENSION & DRIVETRAIN MAINTENANCE
• Check suspension for free movement during building and operation, and especially after
running and if you have crashed the car. If the suspension does not move freely, use the
appropriate HUDY Arm Reamer to clean and resize the holes of the suspension arms.
• Regularly check the drive shaft pins (both side and center) and if they show any wear
must be immediately replaced by new pins. If the car is run with worn pins, excessive
wear on the diff outdrives will result. The 106000 HUDY Drive Pin Replacement Tool (for
3mm Pins) is a compact, rugged multi-use tool set for replacing 3mm drive pins in drive
shafts. Use the HUDY replacement drive shaft pins 3x14 (#106050).
• Regularly inspect and replace the connecting pins which connect the center drive shafts
with the pinion gear, and also the pins that connect the wheel drive shafts with wheel
axles. Use HUDY Graphite Grease to lubricate the drive shaft connecting joints and the
diff gears.
• Pivot balls and ball-joints will naturally wear for some time and will generate play. If
there is too much play the pivot balls and ball joints need to be replaced.
• If the car is run in wet conditions, apply WD-40® on all drivetrain parts before the run.
After the run, clean and dry the parts again.
HUDY SPRING STEEL™
The HUDY Spring Steel™ used in the car is the strongest and most durable steel material on the RC market. While items made from HUDY Spring Steel™ are still subject to wear, the
lifespan is considerably longer than any other material. As parts made from HUDY Spring Steel™ wear, the brown color will after some time “go down” but it will not affect the strength of
the material. The brown color is only a surface treatment and if the brown color will wear the durability of the part will be still strong.
HUDY #106220
HUDY #106222
HUDY #106221
HUDY #106230
HUDY #106210
MAINTENANCE
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