22
OPERATIONS (cont.)
GENERAL TIPS AND GUIDELINES
1.
Thickness planing always works best when at least one side of the workpiece has a flat
surface. If both sides of the workpiece are rough, feed one face of the board through the
planer until the entire surface is flat.
2.
ALWAYS plane both sides of the workpiece to reach the desired thickness.
3.
DO NOT plane workpieces less than 1/8” thick, less than 3 / 4” wide, or shorter than 9 1 / 2”
in length.
4.
It is not recommended to continuously use the planer at its maximum depth of cut of 1/8”
and at its full width 13” as this will shorten the life of the motor. Use shallower cuts of 1/32” or
less.
5.
Light depth of cuts create a smoother finish than heavier cuts.
AVOIDING SNIPE
Snipe, gouging or depression of the board at the ends, can occur when the board is not properly
supported. For workpieces longer than 5 ft, greater care must be taken to reduce the problem
because the additional length of the workpiece translates into more unsupported weight pulling
down on the end of the board. This unsupported weight will work against keeping the stock flat.
Make sure to use supports, such as roller stands, whenever long pieces are being planed to avoid
this problem. Since snipe can occur at both ends of the board, it is good practice to start with a
workpiece that is slightly longer than what you need so that you can simply cut off the ends if
necessary.
Snipe locks are not a necessity on bench top portable planers. Here are a few methods you can
use to reduce or eliminate snipe if it's apparent:
1) Plane boards that are longer than your finished length and cut the snipe ends off... if it exists
2) Run scrap pieces of the same thickness in front and after the stock making sure the stock butts
up to the end of the scrap pieces and to each other as you feed them.
3) Adjust the tables upwards a bit if your model allows. But be aware that you will have to readjust
as the stock gets thinner and/or for your next project
4) Make a planer thru table surfacing jig to whatever length you like that is one continuous surface.
They are usually portable (removable) . There are many online videos showing how to make this
jig. Some are very complex while others designs are extremely simple
5) Skew the board slightly before feeding. The very corner of the work piece will "absorb" the snipe
6) Take less depth of cut per pass
7) The most widely used method : Lift the stock slightly when feeding until the rear roller catches.
Then slightly lift again when exiting the planer to keep the end of the stock out of the cutterhead
