VSW40 Wood Stove
6
20300060
STOVE SET-UP
STOVE SET-UP
1. Check that all brick and tubes are in place.
2. Select the proper location for the stove. These
appliances must not be installed any closer than the
minimum clearance to combustible materials shown on
Page 8 of this manual. The stove must be installed on
a non-combustible surface as shown on Page 9 of this
manual.
3. Remove packing material and packing labels from
glass.
FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE MINIMUM CLEARANCE
REQUIREMENT AND NON-COMBUSTIBLE SURFACE
REQUIREMENTS MAY RESULT IN AN UNSAFE INSTAL-
LATION
4. If non-combustible materials have been installed on the
walls, obtain the minimum clearances from either the
manufacturer of these materials or the local building
inspectors office.
5. Install the stovepipe INSIDE the flue collar on the top
of the stove between the stove and chimney.
6. dO NOT
use a grate to elevate the fire.
STOVE PIPE
1. Make sure your chimney and chimney connector meets
safety codes. Check with authorities having jurisdiction
in your area.
2. All pipe sections must be connected with the male end
(crimped end) toward the stove.
3. Fasten the stove pipe to the flue collar by the use of three
sheet metal screws. Do the same at each additional
joint to make the entire installation rigid.
4. Maintain the required diameter flue for the entire
installation.
5. If you are connecting the stove to an old masonry flue,
be sure to have it inspected for cracks and general
condition. Resizing with a stainless steel liner may be
required.
6. It is recommended that no more than two 90 degree
bends be used in the stovepipe installation. More than
two 90 degree bends may decrease the amount of draw
and possible cause smoke spillage.
7. A damper is not required in this installation. Remove
any damper plate in the chimney or secure in the
OPEN
position.
8. Single wall flue pipe assemblies must not exceed 10
feet (3 meters) in overall length.
NOTES ON ChIMNEY ANd STOVEPIPE INSU-
LATION:
Maintaining a clean chimney is important. Chimneys
should be inspected regularly for creosote buildup. A
straight chimney is easier to clean than one with 45 or 90
degree bends. A bend requires the pipe to be removed
for cleaning. The stove baffle must be removed when
cleaning the chimney (see page 15). Chimney sweepings
will build up on top of baffle causing a blocked flue and/or
a fire hazard.
Steel Chimney
Most factory made “Class A” steel chimneys have a layer
of insulation around the inner flue. This insulation keeps
the smoke warm and protects the surrounding structure
from the high flue temperatures. Because the insulation is
less dense than masonry, the inner steel liner warms up
more quickly than masonry chimney; this makes the steel
chimney support a good draft more quickly than masonry
does.
Indoor/Outdoor Location
Because the chimney’s function is to keep the smoke
warm, it is best to locate it inside the house. This location
uses the house as insulation for the flue and allows some
radiant heat release form the flue into the home. Since an
interior chimney doesn’t continuously lose its heat to the
outdoors, less heat from the stove is required to get it warm
and keep it warm.
Flue Sizing
The flue size for a controlled-combustion appliance should
be based on the cross-sectional volume of the stove flue
outlet. In this case, more is definitely not better. Hot gases
lose heat through expansion; if a stove with a six-inch flue
collar (28 square inch area) is vented into a 10" x 10" flue,
the gases will expand to over three times their original
volume. As gases cool with expansion, draft strength
decreases. If the oversized flue is also outside the house,
the heat it absorbs will be conducted to the outdoor air and
the flue will remain relatively cool.
It is common for a masonry flue to be oversized for the
stove. Such a chimney can take quite a while to warm up,
and the stove performance will likely be disappointing. The
best solution to an oversize flue problem is the installation
of an insulated steel chimney liner of the same diameter
as the appliance flue outlet. The liner keeps the exhaust
gas warm and the result is a stronger draft. An uninsulated
liner is a second choice—although the liner will keep the
exhaust restricted to its original volume, the air around the
liner will require time and heat energy to warm up.
Check your local codes. You may be required to install a
flue liner in any oversize masonry flue.
