30
Sail Servo removed for clarity. When you stack the washer, the keel nuts, and the Nylon spacer nut on the bow-end Keel
Bolt you will have about a quarter inch or less of threads showing. The Keel Post will fit over the exposed threads as it
rotates into the straight position. By using a ¼ inch drill to loosen-up the inside of both ends of the post, it will be easier to
slip over the threads as you rotate the top into the upper mount. You have to lift the deck at the front (bow-end) cockpit
opening to help engage the post into the slope-sided recess of the upper mount. If your mast & rigging is on the boat, you
have to
remove the tension from the mast
to be able to lift the deck and insert the King Post. If needed, you can shorten
the King Post a little with sandpaper.
The Lower Hull Kit is complete and ready for your Mast, Rigging & Sails.
Painting Tips:
It will take 2 to 3 coats of most hobby paints to give a good even color. Never try to get full
coverage with the first coat. It will run every time! You should be able to see through the first coat.
The best
tip about any kind of spray paint is to
let the paint “flash” between coats.
A coat of paint has “flashed”
when it is dry to the touch. Don’t touch the boat. Touch the masking paper or somewhere where a fingerprint
won’t show in case you touched it too soon. Hold the can a full foot or more from the surface. “Plastic
Friendly” paints have a reputation of being thin or easy to drip. Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover or Krylon Fusion
paint will take 15 minutes to flash depending on the temperature. Different colors can take different times to
flash. Set a timer and walk away. A rushed paint job will look rushed. A coat that has flashed properly will
support the next coat and prevent it from dripping. Read the directions on the can. Most list a maximum time
you can wait between coats, to mask over one color to apply a 2nd color for example. Exceed that maximum
recoat time and the new coat can cause the earlier coats to bubble or blister. They may say “Recoat within 2
hours or after 7 days”. The second coat will take longer to flash than the first. Be patient! Practice on a scrap
stood on it’s end. Your goal is to get coverage without runs. Avoid spraying enamel on very humid days.
Humidity can cause the paint to “blush” leaving a cloudy appearance to dark colors or a dull appearance in
glossy paints. “Non-toxic” model paints are safest to brush on.
Although these paints will dry to the touch in an hour or so and may be dry enough to handle in 24 hours,
they will be soft and easily dented or scratched until they harden in 3-4 days.
Painting The Hull:
Styrene is best painted with Acrylics, Hobby Enamels, Krylon Fusion paint or Rust-
Oleum 2X paint that is safe for plastic. Sanding may not be necessary as these “Bonds to Plastics” paints
chemically bond with the hull plastic. They will not peel from the surface, even when scraped by rocks or
other sharp objects. Lacquers and regular enamels may melt or weaken the styrene in thin areas or when
applied wet-on-wet. Non-plastic-friendly enamels may need the surface to be scuffed so they can bond to the
plastic. Use them at your own risk! Test your paints on the leftover hull scraps. See “Painting Tips” on the
website. Ask others with experience the best way to paint. Learn from others mistakes.
MAINTENANCE:
After a day of sailing, remove the cockpit cover. Remove any water inside the boat.
Leave it open to dry. If you find water, set a fan to blow air into the hull for a day to ensure all moisture is
removed. Occasionally add a little plastic-friendly (synthetic) grease to the rudder shaft.
Copyright © 2020 Philip Pace, d.b.a. Vac-U-Boat
TM
