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Also, each time you adjust the bevel setting
you change the effect of the miter setting. It
may take several settings to obtain the desired
cut. The first angle setting should be checked
after setting the second angle, since adjusting
the second angle affects the first.
Once the two correct settings for a particular
cut have been obtained, always make a test cut
in scrap material before making a finish cut in
good material.
TO MAKE A COMPOUND CUT
• Pull out the lock pin and lift saw arm to its
full height.
• Loosen the miter lock levers.
• Rotate the saw table until the pointer aligns
with the desired angle on the miter scale.
• Tighten the miter lock levers securely.
• Loosen the bevel lock knob and move the
saw arm to the left to the desired bevel angle.
• Bevel angles can be set from 0˚ to 45˚.
• Once the saw arm has been set at the desired
angle, securely tighten the bevel lock knob.
• Recheck miter angle setting. Make a test cut
in scrap material.
• Place the workpiece flat on the miter table
with one edge securely against the fence. If the
board is warped, place the convex side against
the fence. If the concave edge of a board could
collapse on the blade at the end of the cut,
jamming the blade.
• When cutting long pieces of lumber or mold-
ing, support the opposite end of the stock with
a roller stand or with a work surface level with
the saw table.
• Align the cutting line on the workpiece with
the edge of saw blade.
• Grasp the stock firmly with one hand and
secure it against the fence or use the optional
work clamp or a C-clamp to secure the work-
piece when possible.
NOTE: When making a 45˚ left miter and a
bevel angle greater than 30˚ , you must use a C-
clamp to secure the workpiece or move clamp
to the right side of the base.
• Before turning on the saw, perform a dry run
of the cutting operation just to make sure that
no problems will occur when the cut is made.
• Grasp the saw handle firmly then squeeze the
switch trigger. Allow several seconds for the
blade to reach maximum speed.
• Slowly lower the blade into and through the
workpiece.
• Release the switch trigger and allow the saw
blade to stop rotating before raising the blade
out of workpiece. Wait until the electric brake
stops blade from turning before removing the
workpiece from miter table.
SUPPORT LONG WORKPIECES
Long workpieces need extra supports. Sup-
ports should be placed along the workpiece
so it does not sag. The support should let the
workpiece lay flat on the base of the saw and
work table during the cutting operation.
Use the optional work clamp or a C-clamp to
secure the workpiece.
CUTTING CROWN MOLDING
This compound miter saw does an excellent
job of cutting crown molding. In general, com-
pound miter saws do a better job of cutting
crown molding than any other tool made.
In order to fit properly, crown molding must
be compound mitered with extreme accuracy.
The two contact surfaces on a piece of crown
molding that fit flat against the ceiling and the
wall of a room are at angles that, when added
together, equal exactly 90°. Most crown mold-
ing has a top rear angle (the section that fits
flat against the ceiling) of 52° and a bottom
rear angle (the section that fits flat against the
wall) of 38°.
LAYING MOLDING FLAT ON THE MITER TABLE
To use this method for accurately cutting crown
molding for a 90° inside or outside corner, lay
the molding with its broad back surface flat on
the miter table and against the fence.
When setting the bevel and miter angles for
compound miters, remember that the set-
tings are interdependent; changing one angle
changes the other angle as well.
Keep in mind that the angles for crown mold-
ings are very precise and difficult to set. Since
it is very easy for these angles to shift, all set-
tings should first be tested on scrap molding.
Also most walls do not have angles of exactly
90°, therefore, you will need to fine tune your
settings. When cutting crown molding by
this method the bevel angle should be set at
33.85°. The miter angle should be set at 31.62°
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